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Post by meskeram on Feb 14, 2013 13:10:46 GMT -5
I got to talk with Mykaru a little bit at Wednesday's fighter practice and it was quite informative. Actually being able to look at real armour was indescribably beneficial. However, while I am waiting on my new steel to arrive for my dou and kabuto, I decided to play around with another 18 gauge mild dou. I am really just trying to get a better shape out of this one and I thought "why not post progress pictures so the kind archive people can tell me what I am doing right and/or wrong?" Also it might be somewhat helpful for really new people who have no idea how to work with metal (people like me). The first thing I decided to modify was to use a more robust hinge. I went from this fragile weakling:  to this beefy dude:  Then I pounded out a shallow impression in a tree stump with a domed face 5 pound mini sledge:  Next I lightly dished each plate like so:  Here are two pics of my hammer. It came with Halberds' old newbie armouring kit:   This is how the rough form (before planishing) of the front body came out:  and here is a profile:  The flare at the bottom most lame was created by making several passes over a ball stake. I just realized after posting that I probably should have punched the top row of holes before forming the plates... son of a... Oh well. I will post more pics as I make more progress. Adam Mesker |
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Post by schindibee on Feb 15, 2013 8:50:10 GMT -5
Thanks for sharing! I watch your progress with great interest while preparing for my own work on my first okegawa dô... = )
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Post by meskeram on Feb 15, 2013 15:48:54 GMT -5
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Post by pallidus on Feb 15, 2013 16:43:36 GMT -5
you could just use a piano hinge for the side. Eff suggests it in his armor manual.
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Post by meskeram on Feb 15, 2013 16:47:10 GMT -5
I used a piano hinge on my first dou, but I was thinking it seemed a bit too flimsy for SCA combat. Have you used the piano hinge in combat successfully? If so, I am totally using it again.
Thank you for the suggestion.
Adam Mesker
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AJBryant
New Member
甲冑師 katchuu-shi
Posts: 1,972
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Post by AJBryant on Feb 15, 2013 20:52:49 GMT -5
That's what I always used.
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Post by meskeram on Feb 15, 2013 21:16:22 GMT -5
Sweet! There is one problem solved. Piano hinge time go.
Thanks for the confirmation.
Adam Mesker
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Post by meskeram on Feb 19, 2013 16:12:11 GMT -5
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2013 11:21:40 GMT -5
...
So maybe you could answer a few questions for me?
1-Why on God's green earth are you assembling the entire project bottom to top?
2-Why are you you considering using a door hinge that easily gives an unprotected
section of 8 inches (and looks TERRIBLE)?
If I were you, I would just use a piano hinge. the thing is, flimsy or not, it
is the best substitute for shaping the ends of your nakagawa lames into a hinge
itself, or lacing it (which is incredibly weaker; all you need to do is make one clean
cut through the "hinge" cords, and your front and back sections are flying free,
with the exeption of the securing cord on the right side.)
Also, once installed, a piano hinge takes on the sructure of the nakagawa lames.
that means if it takes a good smack, and the nakagawa lame themselves are still
intact and not bent or dented, then the hinge is still good.
In short: DITCH THE HINGE. The next armor you make, PLEASE, PLEASE assemble the
lame from top to bottom, and work from front to back (finish the front section BEFORE
working on the back section).
Other than that, I see you're doing a wonderful job! Keep it up!
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Post by meskeram on Feb 22, 2013 11:59:08 GMT -5
Thank you for your comments and concern about my work.
1. I started with the bottom most plate on the front portion because I had read a post from pallidus where he recommended this plate as a starting point because of the importance of creating an accurate fit to the hips. As that I am still rather unpracticed at building armour, I decided to give this suggestion a try. I think it worked out pretty well honestly.
On the rear section I worked top to bottom and really didn't notice any real difference in the process. This might be due to my inexperience, though.
2. I was considering using the door hinge because I was told by Mykaru that I might want to beef up my existing piano hinge from my first dou for SCA combat. Then after having watch the kind of punishment my local group is capable of dishing out, I started thinking about this long and hard.
It was never my intention to leave that 1/2"~ gap in the lower 3" of the body section. Instead my plan was to use two hinges to cover the distance and then shape those hinges to match the inside curvature of the nagagawa. This would then help even more to preserve the shape of the nagagawa. Also the hinges will be riveted into place either way.
However, now I am curious. Why is it important to construct the armour from top to bottom? Does it have something to do with maintaining the correct tapered body profile?
On a side note, I understand that this is a forum and connotation is lost in text, but I read your post as rather assaultive and hostile. I am going to assume via benefit of the doubt that I made some foolish mistake in my construction methods and you were simply pointing out my hubris or something like that via friendly sarcasm.
I hope to have the rest finished next week with more pictures and such.
Take it easy everybody,
Adam Mesker
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2013 16:27:25 GMT -5
Thank you for your comments and concern about my work. 1. I started with the bottom most plate on the front portion because I had read a post from pallidus where he recommended this plate as a starting point because of the importance of creating an accurate fit to the hips. As that I am still rather unpracticed at building armour, I decided to give this suggestion a try. I think it worked out pretty well honestly. On the rear section I worked top to bottom and really didn't notice any real difference in the process. This might be due to my inexperience, though. 2. I was considering using the door hinge because I was told by Mykaru that I might want to beef up my existing piano hinge from my first dou for SCA combat. Then after having watch the kind of punishment my local group is capable of dishing out, I started thinking about this long and hard. It was never my intention to leave that 1/2"~ gap in the lower 3" of the body section. Instead my plan was to use two hinges to cover the distance and then shape those hinges to match the inside curvature of the nagagawa. This would then help even more to preserve the shape of the nagagawa. Also the hinges will be riveted into place either way. However, now I am curious. Why is it important to construct the armour from top to bottom? Does it have something to do with maintaining the correct tapered body profile? On a side note, I understand that this is a forum and connotation is lost in text, but I read your post as rather assaultive and hostile. I am going to assume via benefit of the doubt that I made some foolish mistake in my construction methods and you were simply pointing out my hubris or something like that via friendly sarcasm. I hope to have the rest finished next week with more pictures and such. Take it easy everybody, Adam Mesker Mesker-San, Please, do forgive me for my harsh way of stating what I thought was wrong. I spoke on my experiance as an armor making, and was only stating what I thought was the best way to assemble things. Either way, I do believe the time has come to be more helpful than harmful. Now, consider this: If you use two hinges, ever they are misaligned in the LEAST, they will not work; in this case, I think you would be best to consider if you want just a normal piano hinge, or make cords your "hinges". I recommend this, because considering SCA combat does not involve any blades, the chances of your cords being cut are none. |
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Post by pallidus on Feb 22, 2013 18:31:57 GMT -5
As a side note - I built my first nagagawa do with 1/2" overlap on the sides. The problem was when I got to breathing heavily, the expansion of my torso would take the overlap out, and then they wouldn't go back together correctly. My next do I put a 1.5" - 2" overlap on each side and its worked out fine.
I found that fitting the hip-line is the most important aspect of the fit. if it doesn't fit there, it wont fit anywhere. Therefore I make my Do from the hip up. As I add lames from the bottom up, I make sure they do not affect the lowest lame. Yamashita, I am also curious why you suggest making it the top down...?
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Post by meskeram on Feb 23, 2013 8:34:58 GMT -5
A little off topic and carry over from the Armour Archive, but I got some clecos from my uncle the other night.
These things rock. Thank you Pallidus... you beautiful, beautiful man.
Adam Mesker
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Post by pallidus on Feb 23, 2013 21:19:28 GMT -5
hahahaha! The first time you use them, it feels like light from heaven shining down upon you! Then you think "why the hell haven't I used these before!!" then you think "I"m telling everyone I know about these!" And then you do.
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Lash
New Member
perfection isnt an end result but a path to walk upon with your eyes closed.
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Post by Lash on Feb 24, 2013 14:27:57 GMT -5
What are clecos?
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