Tokin - predecessor to the kanmuri

[Please Delete]

So I've been trying to figure this one out for a long time, and now it seems that I was probably overthinking the problem.

A little background:

A kanmuri is the lacquered black gauze court cap worn by the nobility since the Heian period:


This evolved from a Chinese hat, which was also used in the Chinese (and Korean) courts; here is a Qing dynasty example for the Peking opera:


You can see in the Nara period that this evolved from the "tokin"--a cloth hat. Here are some examples of reconstructions or extant depictions in the Nara period:








So, to try to figure out how to do this, I started with what I thought would be a long shot--just a plain eboshi (actually, the first ori-eboshi I ever made). It is simply two pieces of cloth, in a tall, semi-circular shape. Added some raw wool to make up for my lack of a topknot.

Surprisingly, that seemed to work--so I did it in buckram, added some ties like I saw in the Osaka Museum example, and spray-painted it black (we have found with our tate-eboshi that this helps it keep body, even after a long, hot day).

Here's what we have, minus the "tails" (enbi) that I plan to add on, next:




So far, I'm pretty happy with it, considering this was all done in about 12 hours, really.

-Ii

[Deleted]

Very, very, nice.

People tend to make too many (of the same old) jokes when I try to wear a tall eboshi, plus it's a little rude to those seated behind me in court. A shorter, more formal headcovering like this is on my list of long term goals.

You mentioned the black spray paint, but did you start with white buckram or black buckram?

[Saionji Shonagon]

Jul 5, 2010 10:12:17 GMT -5 @ishiyama said:

People tend to make too many (of the same old) jokes when I try to wear a tall eboshi, plus it's a little rude to those seated behind me in court. A shorter, more formal headcovering like this is on my list of long term goals.

Ironically, the same people who complain about one's hat being in their way are often likely to be the same ones jack-rabbiting out of their seats to snap badly composed, blurry photos of the proceedings or plant themselves down front with large hats or parasols of their own, heedless of whomever may be behind them.

One cannot control the actions of barbarians. One can only hope to influence by example, be a good guest and look good doing it. If I attend an outdoor court which necessitates my wearing one of my gasa, I take my shogi to a back row or stand at the back.

If a tate eboshi goes with what you're wearing, wear it.

[Deleted]

Jul 5, 2010 10:59:02 GMT -5 Saionji Shonagon said:

Ironically, the same people who complain about one's hat being in their way are often likely to be the same ones jack-rabbiting out of their seats to snap badly composed, blurry photos of the proceedings or plant themselves down front with large hats or parasols of their own, heedless of whomever may be behind them.

I haven't received any actual complaints. I'm just too considerate for my own good, I suppose.

[Lash]

And of course Makiwara-danae ,
being in the company of a dirty mercenary sword for hire as myself it would not bother me in the least to remove the offending obstruction ( hat/head) for you with just the slightest wave of your fan or nod of your noble head.
And guaranty that barbarians sitting behind you would be silent in any protestations they may have about your beautifull headwear.
All this would be at no charge for you-- of course!

[Please Delete]

I started with white buckram.

Be aware that this particular style is not a replacement for the later kanmuri unless you are going early period --even then, I think it will scrape by, but it doesn't look as nice as it should for the occasion. 7th~8th century (maybe 9th? probably not 10th).

That said, I think you could do an ori-eboshi this way or else go ahead and make a wooden kanmuri mold and use that (two molds might work: One for the bottom and one for the top). If I was doing a truly fancy one I would have added a bit of black leather around the rim to help keep it's shape, like we did with our tate-eboshi.

As for the issue of crowds--I often take tall hats off in court OR I sit to the outside--if I sit in the front, to the side, on the floor, then there is usually room for me without obscuring anything important.

-Ii

[Saionji Shonagon]

Jul 6, 2010 12:16:02 GMT -5 Lash said:

And of course Makiwara-danae ,
being in the company of a dirty mercenary sword for hire as myself it would not bother me in the least to remove the offending obstruction ( hat/head) for you with just the slightest wave of your fan or nod of your noble head.

Rashu-dono, I WISH you could meet my yojimbo from back east. For a bushi from the hinterlands of the Kanto, he made a most excellent retainer, could do more with a scowl than most men can manage with a sword in each hand, and was most insistent upon being my beck-and-call-guy. ;D Unfortunately for all of us, he does not currently play in the SCA.