Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Nov 1, 2011 17:20:02 GMT -5
When I think on this hat I cant help but wonder if maybe it was a sort of punishment for not paying attention and having roaming eyes...
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Post by Please Delete on Nov 1, 2011 17:34:50 GMT -5
It worked very well as a stage prop, though. You all looked very spiff! You know, with the same basic technique, you could probably make an under carriage that you then cover with fabric. In fact, I'm looking at one that we have (the E-bay one, which has no tails and doesn't come apart) and it is, in fact, on a frame. So, the undercarriage is a lacquered (or plastic) frame. The plastic is the initial band, and about 1~2 cm of rim along the top front. There is a line where the hair pin is, going from the top of the kanmuri down to the base. On top and in front of that line, the plastic extends about 1~1.5", and then the back is entirely plastic (except for the hole for the motodori, where it goes up about 1~2cm. Then there is a strip up the front and back, and along the sides, meeting in a cross at the top. The rest is open. Then there is a rectangular piece on the back for the tails to stick into. There is then a screen (it feels like a screen door) over the openings. The whole thing is then covered in silk, which is very open weave (maybe 1mm or so between each thread?). That loose weave allows for it to gather without folding as it comes to the front. On the inside around the bottom wall is a piece of felt, and there is a bit of a roll at the edge. Here are some photos of ours if anyone is interested:
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Post by Please Delete on Nov 1, 2011 17:40:46 GMT -5
When I think on this hat I cant help but wonder if maybe it was a sort of punishment for not paying attention and having roaming eyes... That was more of a Chinese thing It is said that those long, lacquered tails sticking out were to prevent courtiers from turning their heads and gossiping during court--or at least it would make it very obvious! -Ii
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Nov 2, 2011 0:38:44 GMT -5
Ishiyama-dono, that's disturbingly - brilliant.
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erink
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Post by erink on Nov 3, 2011 10:10:03 GMT -5
Yes, apparently Ishiyama-dono excels in cheapass construction as well as the classy kind!
You could probably do a papier-mache or decoupage kind of technique with black fabric over a frame of wire or cardboard. Cut it as close to the shape as possible and then coat it with glue and squish it on...
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AJBryant
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甲冑師 katchuu-shi
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Post by AJBryant on Nov 3, 2011 15:48:48 GMT -5
CHeck millinery supplies. There are buckram forms for little pillbox hats that are "close enough for government work" for basing the body of a kanmuri on. Buckram is your friend.
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nana
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~Think Pink~ "I'm obnoxious!"
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Post by nana on Nov 4, 2011 9:37:39 GMT -5
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Dec 24, 2011 11:37:21 GMT -5
Okay, I just found another example of this hat. I found this example in a Japanese book from 1933, that is a visual directory of Noh and all the props/costumes/etc used in it. Check out the hat in the top right, its the same hat...at least I think it is. Also, have fun looking at the other hats. I'm watching this book on ebay to buy, it is NOT cheap.
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Post by Suzuki Ken'ichi on Dec 24, 2011 13:49:31 GMT -5
I've been watching a Korean historical costume drama (Tree With Deep Roots in case you're interested), and I'm seeing a lot of the government officials wearing hats like the second one down in that right hand column. I suspect it's a Chinese design that got disseminated throughout their sphere of influence.
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Dec 24, 2011 15:41:24 GMT -5
Small note..I have seen other pages in this book - it is a book about Japanese Noh costuming. The hat page sample I posted is from Japanese Noh.
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Dec 30, 2011 23:03:59 GMT -5
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Dec 31, 2011 0:51:38 GMT -5
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Post by henrikofhavn on Jan 11, 2012 1:50:39 GMT -5
Just some possibly applicable commentary;
Hemp fabric is one of the fibres referenced in real period garments, usually more as some sort of lining or foundation structure. It may have been used in head gear as well. Hemp fabric is modernly available in various weaves including coarse weaves and open weaves, as well as close and fine.
A 3 hour seminar I attended in Richmond ( Ca) a couple of years ago, was presented by a Japanese Urishi artist who spoke about ( through a translater - who seemed to miss a lot) Urushi and working with it ( including the skin rash you get and which is a special "baptism" { my interpretation} that you must receive to do it correctly). He demonstrated preparing some for application by appling some from a tube ( like tooth paste) onto a sheet of class and using a palet knife like tool added a small amount of plain didtilled water and mixed the two together into an even cream like consistancy. This he then applied to various objects, including coarsely woven fabric of an open weave, a piece of wood and some other items. the he showed samples of similar size and material, which he had done the same to a day or two before, and which had hardened in the mean time, making the woven fabric sample stiff.
He explained that good lacquerwere had to be coated many times with layer upon layer to build up the thickness to the proper degree, with curing (drying), and sanding between coats, making the process take months if not longer to complete.
Till then I had been under the impression that Urushi need heat and a humid surrounding, to harden or cure. In his case it seemed that a special hot damp box was not needed and that the humidity was mixed in as the water added to the urushi on the glass plate and simple warmth was all that was needed for it to get hard.
I would guess this is what the traditional head gear was made from.
Henrik
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bovil
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Post by bovil on Jan 11, 2012 18:45:15 GMT -5
Hemp fabric is one of the fibres referenced in real period garments, usually more as some sort of lining or foundation structure. It may have been used in head gear as well. Hemp fabric is modernly available in various weaves including coarse weaves and open weaves, as well as close and fine. Hemp was actually used a lot. Daimon hitatare were, by definition, made unlined from hemp cloth. It was the common bast-fiber fabric. Ramie (china grass) and kudzu were also used to produce bast-fiber fabric.
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jan 25, 2012 8:05:39 GMT -5
Hemp was used a lot. Interestingly, when I was at the Toledo Art Museum the Asian Gallery Director and I spoke about hemp. Some of the more rare and precious Japanese textiles in museums today were not made of silk...but hemp. Hemp and plant fiber weaves were very common for the lower classes of society - but the problem is that such garments rarely survived because they were made for lower class people and worn until they fall apart. People through history didnt collect or regard such attire with much respect verses silk.
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