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Post by matsumoto on Feb 6, 2014 19:23:42 GMT -5
Good evening =), I have decided that I would like to have something different than my usually "Samurai outfit". While I do like the women's Kouchiki and Juni-hitoe I prefer the male style,its also so much easier to walk around =).  I want to go for a more informal clothing. I am just not sure if I should go for the Noshi or the Kariginu style. Apparently both were the daily casual clothes of the aristocrats hmm... For the noshi I would need to wear a Kosode, shitabakama, hitoe, akome, sashinuki, nôshi. Does anyone know where I can find some pattern? And even more important, how do I actually wear the clothes? What's the correct order? What will probably be even more difficult is to get hold of the accessoirs: Asagutsu, tatô, hiogi, shaku. I can't make this myself, so I would need to buy it somewhere. Luckly this fall I am going to move to Japan. If anyone can point out or knows about japanese stores that sell fabrics, accessoirs etc. I would be very greatful. Matsu |
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Post by Please Delete on Feb 6, 2014 21:17:05 GMT -5
The kariginu is a good start as it is easier to put together and the underlayers are pretty much the same. Here is a good site with pictures that shows how it goes together. jyoukouin.otodo.net/usumono-nahosi.html. There is a pattern in Jidai Ishou no Nuikata, though you may also want to look up patterns for a "hoeki-no-ho"--they are essentially the same except for the fabric (noushi are not restricted in fabric) and the pouch is actually turned out on the noushi instead of in. The sleeves are the really tricky bit: The body panels and the inner sleeves are each a panel width, but the outer sleeve ends are about 2/3 of a panel. In reality you use a full panel, turn the last 1/3 over, and then take another 3rd of a panel to finish it off on the inside. That last 1/3 is with the same fabric as the lining, so you can then have the rest of the lining be made similar to the rest of the noushi. The order: kosode, shitabakama, akome, hitoe, sashinuki, and then noushi. You can find some stuff about it here: www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html. The shaku isn't necessary with a noushi--just the hiogi or a fan will usually be fine. The shaku always feels more official, and I wonder if it isn't more a part of Shinto use vice its use by leisure seeking nobility. They are fun, though--more satisfying than even a smackity-fan! The asagutsu are difficult, and not very comfortable, and you may want to go with something low profile and black in the meantime. I've thought about trying to make them but you probably need to have some good woodworking skills. For fabric, it is hard to point to anything really affordable. There is something neat that you can do, though--if you use an outer layer of thin white silk and an inner layer of a bright, colorful silk then you can get a really neat effect. If you are going to be in Japan, where will you be? There are some good folks around the Tokyo and Sasebo regions. I think there may also be some Avalon members out in Osaka region, but I don't recall. We can get you in touch, if necessary. -Ii |
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Post by matsumoto on Feb 7, 2014 5:05:59 GMT -5
Thanks for your answer.
Kariginu is better? Good I think I actually liked it a tad bit more, but wasn't sure which one would be better. Great, I will have a look.
Hmm yeah the sleeves do actually look tricky to me. As does the Sashinuki.
Ok so for a Kariginu the order would be : Kosode, shitabakama, koromo (uchiakome?), (hitoe), sashinuki, kariginu. I guess?
Hmm ok If the shaku isn't neccessary, even better. I've got a pretty sensu from Kyoto, that will do. And no I have never done any woodworking or carving, I propbably have to buy them in Japan.
Regarding the fabric, I am really after these japanese fabrics with the nice ornaments printed on it.
I am going to Tokyo and it would be awesome if you could get me in touch with these folks. =D
Matsu
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Post by Please Delete on Feb 7, 2014 18:57:36 GMT -5
For printed fabric, I would reach out to Saionji no Hana Shonagon (OL) and her site, www.wodefordhall.com. As for sashinuki, they aren't really that difficult--just long. The easiest thing to do is to make very long hakama (about as long as nagabakama) with a string in the bottom that you can then use to tie them at the ankle or above the calf. Alternatively, you can take a later period approach and attach long, thin triangle sections to the bottom inside at the front and rear of the hakama and then tie those to ties placed on the inside at the waist. Good thing: it won't cut off the circulation at the ankles. On the other hand, the construction is a bit more tricky. -Ii |
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