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Post by hiroantagonist on Dec 14, 2014 21:29:33 GMT -5
I am newish to the sca and a martial arts dabbler, and am putting together a fencing kit. I already have built a alchem inc katana, and am now sourcing fighting kit. My question is has anyone found a gi that qualifies as puncture resistant? What i m looking at getting is a heavy karate gi by ronin made of 12 oz duck. 2 things I know about that is it is the same weight as carrhart pants, and are heaver, from what I have read, than commercial cotton fencing kit. Has anyone tried this, does it pass the test? I plan on starting with this, then making hakama, and as I figure out the sewing machine, making a bigger simple kosode, keeping the gi as the base layer. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Saionji Shonagon
New Member
One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Dec 14, 2014 22:11:53 GMT -5
I couldn't tell you that - you'd have to have it tested* to see if it will pass by itself or in combination with anything else you plan to wear over/under it. (*I don't know what the standards are in your kingdom, but I assume Society minimum at least.) I built my own based on a fighting shitagi and have a graphed out pattern for it here: wodefordhall.com/japaneserapier.htmIf you're planning on sewing your own, get swatches of the fabric and have them tested, then buy the yardage you need.
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Post by Please Delete on Dec 14, 2014 22:16:16 GMT -5
I would not recommend most modern gi for the following reasons: 1) Generally, they seem to be a wider weave, and I would worry about whether or not it is puncture resistant. The only way to check would be to test, but they are not really meant to resist stabbing weapons, generally. 2) Many gi are thick, and I don't think I'd want to be out there in the heat of summer fighting in one. 3) Many gi, even with long sleeves, don't seem to really come all the way down the arms (to avoid getting entangled, I suppose). In my experience (but I may just be too tall), the sleeves end so short I would be afraid that I wouldn't be able to cover sufficiently without *really* long gloves. 4) You probably want a gi that ties shut, but even then you want to make sure it stays closed up near the neck. The v-neck can be problematic, and you need to make sure something (your gorget or other) covers it.
So... for those reasons (among others), I advocate making your own. It actually isn't that difficult. You can get a good linen that is strong and breathes, and use multiple layers (I tried to make sure that I also cut the layers at different angles, where possible). You can make the torso and armpits puncture resistant, but the arms only need to be abrasion resistant, so this allows you to customize. In addition, if you make it in the style of the shitagi used for armor, they have a button or some type of closure at the neck that keeps it closed there, as well as ties at the sides.
-Ii
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Post by hiroantagonist on Jan 4, 2015 10:30:16 GMT -5
Makiwara, I am interested in your shitagi pattern, an I have a gi I can take some measurements from ( and my wife just taught me to use the sewing machine). But I do have a question about possibly simplifying it. I am mor interested in function and durability than historic accuracy but it looks like, because the seams ar vertical, you could do the main part out of one piece and put the seams on the shoulders, so no back or side seam. You could even start by folding the fabric into two or three layers and overlap the shoulders six or eight inches to have some extra there and give some padding. Posibly more for under armor or cut and thrust. If I tried that, can you think of the hang ups I would run into or would this work?
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jan 4, 2015 11:44:14 GMT -5
In order to have the overlap in the front, the front panel needs to be wider than the back panel. Normally that's done by adding two narrow overlap panels to the front, the way you see on kosode/kimono and if you do that, you don't need a back seam. I designed mine the way I did because the front of the thing is where one's most likely to take a thrust: no seams there, fewer weak spots.
Try it your way. See what happens. Report back with your results. If it works great, if it doesn't, rethink your design. Heaven knows I've had plenty of genius ideas over the years: some pan out, some don't.
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Post by hiroantagonist on Jan 4, 2015 13:50:00 GMT -5
To clarify I mean like a towel wrapped around the body. Overlap in the front. No seam on back or side. That would give you overlapping on the shoulders, so you would just make sure the fabric is about 8 inches further top to bottom then what you need, cut the arm hole and fold over so that the layers lap each other on top of the shoulder. This would give you only a few short seems,and then the big long collar piece.
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