Mogami do construction begins

[kirishitan]

I've begun the long awaited do. I have my patterns courtesy of AJ Bryant's site sized and cut. Now the questions begin:

I need to scribe my hinge points at the edge of each tateage, but my mockup is not developing a nice gentle curve. I taped the edges straight with hinges in mind and worked my way in and the patterns are "curling" in both directions. I'm sure thicker material will nest better, but I'm afraid the distortions will affect the hinge cuts.

Should I tape from the middle and work out to the edges to get the gentle curve since the left side will be merged with the back anyway? What should I do with the non straight edge that will develop on the right?

Any tips and tricks from those who have gone before is most appreciated!

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[kirishitan]

My first impression is that the basic pattern fits me quite well. I thought I'd need to take it in at the waist since I'm a skinny guy, a kimono and man hora beneath I don't think I'll need to. I'll have to update my kusazuri pattern...

I have the gap between the munaita and the watagami at 3.5", but I'm thinking I may need to make the watagami longer. I feel like if they were longer the armor (at least in the front) would sit nicer on my hips.

Other thoughts? What am I overlooking?

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[Zed]

Definatly start from the middle out, the ends of the lames will not line up snd require a bit of trimming. May have to scale down a bit. Munaita looks to be in the right place thought the oshitsuke no ita is low, bringing it up may help with the watagami gap. Also appears too low waist wise, should sit just above the hips around the belly button to allow range of motion. Just my thoughts... there are others far more qualified

[kirishitan]

Kusazuri & measurement questions after tweaking my patterns:
1) At chest level, should the right side panels be the same length?  On the hip measurements they came out the same, but at chest level, the front panel came out 1/2" shorter than the back panel (see bottom circle).  Is that normal or should I tweak some more to regain that 1/2"?

2) Do kusazuri sets line up perfectly with a mogami do section?  I'm planning on 6 sets (of 5 plates), and originally was going to attach two sets to the front, two the back and one to the left side and one to the right...but sections are different sizes.  If the sets are attached directly to the do (which is what I'd like to do), do they attach to several panels simultaneously?  i.e., the two front sets attach to both the the front section and the two adjoining side sections?  How does this work with the right side which has two panels that only overlap by an inch or so (the kusazuri can't jump panels or else the doors wouldn't open)?  If this poses too much of a problem I'll switch to the removable belt solution which sounds a lot easier, but I'd prefer to do it this way if I can do it right.

[Kozure Okami]

I don't know about your first question, but regarding the second, I had a similar one just some time ago: tousando.proboards.com/thread/4717/sugake-odoshi-hon-kozane-scales It was answered both there and in an older thread that I found, it's this one: tousando.proboards.com/thread/2712/kusazuri-proportions [in both cases, props go out to Kurodachi-dono ] In short: if kusazuri sections don't line up with do sections, you have to perform lacing tricks on the yurugi ito, see the odoshi chapter, kebiki section, of Effingham-sensei's manual for those. Unfortunately I don't know about the problem regardign the right side of a mogami do...

[Zed]

So long as the sections still have sufficient overlap I wouldn't worry too much. If it starts to gap I'd fudge it a bit to compensate

[kirishitan]

May 20, 2015 3:18:46 GMT -5 Kozure Okami said:

In short: if kusazuri sections don't line up with do sections, you have to perform lacing tricks on the yurugi ito, see the odoshi chapter, kebiki section, of Effingham-sensei's manual for those.

If I'm interpreting the pictures correctly, some of the reductions occur by sharing the same holes? So for example the hole step 7 emerges from step 11 returns to on odoshi picture 5?

[Kozure Okami]

May 20, 2015 15:43:30 GMT -5 kirishitan said:

If I'm interpreting the pictures correctly, some of the reductions occur by sharing the same holes? So for example the hole step 7 emerges from step 11 returns to on odoshi picture 5?

I haven't done this myself (yet), but yes, that's how I understand it as well.

[kirishitan]

Two follow up questions now that the lacing trick is understood:

1) how many holes should each section of the do receive? The top plate of the kusazuri is 6.75" and has 24 holes, but the front of the do is 9" wide and will have to accept two sets of kusazuri. That's 6.75" down to 4.5", so that's 24 holes down to what? Is their a ratio? because I have the same problem with the back of the do accepting 2 sets but it's 11" wide. Or do you just punch holes according to the appropriate spacing and then just make it work?

2) to which door on the right side does the kusazuri attach? The front door which tucks under or the back door which overlaps? And how do you avoid a large lacing gap for the other door? Either way I feel like there'll be a 4"ish gap and the kusazuri won't hang like the other side.

Other than the belt, I don't see how 2 is resolved with equal spacing all the ways around.

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[Kozure Okami]

Hi,

1) I think you just punch as many holes as fit (with the appropriate spacing) into the 9". In my opinion, you have to think of the yurugi as being kebiki odoshi with a longer vertical gap, so the odoshi no ana have the same spacing as they would on any other lame of the do.

2) Not sure, but I'm guessing that the rear door, the one that overlaps the front one, should be a little longer than its counterpart. This way, you don't have to cheat on the yurugi as much.
I'm pretty certain though that the kusazuri hang from the overlapping door, you don't want the yurugi to emerge from underneath it... or do you? Expert's opinion please!