Hakuga
New Member
Hello, I was brought here by Saionji-hime's excellent site while looking for a way to make a sensu.
Posts: 18
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Sewing
Feb 2, 2016 23:22:56 GMT -5
Post by Hakuga on Feb 2, 2016 23:22:56 GMT -5
How did a Heian seamstress finish the seams of the garment she made? Felled seams for karaginu-mo or sokutai strike me as being quite bulky, given all the layers. Would she have a pair of pinking shears?
Hideaki
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Saionji Shonagon
New Member
One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Sewing
Feb 3, 2016 0:06:59 GMT -5
Post by Saionji Shonagon on Feb 3, 2016 0:06:59 GMT -5
She didn't. Fabric was woven in widths that lend themselves to being assembled in the units required for most garments, so many seams used the selvage as a ready made finish. Sizing is accomplished by widening or narrowing the seam allowance.
Whenever I've resized a modern kimono or Yukata, the raw edges on cuts across the bolt or along the bolt for half-width panels were folded under and tacked down with running stitch. Remember, in the event of cleaning, a garment would be taken apart, loosely basted back into a single "bolt", then washed and stretched lengthwise to dry.
I seem to recall that even the long cut edges found on mo seams were left unfinished.
That said, we often have to compromise in our recreation by using modern fabrics which require cutting. I usually finish cut seams by folding the edges of a seam sewn with running stitch in on themselves and binding them with an overcast stitch.
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Saionji Shonagon
New Member
One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Sewing
Feb 3, 2016 0:28:22 GMT -5
Post by Saionji Shonagon on Feb 3, 2016 0:28:22 GMT -5
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Hakuga
New Member
Hello, I was brought here by Saionji-hime's excellent site while looking for a way to make a sensu.
Posts: 18
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Sewing
Feb 3, 2016 0:55:06 GMT -5
Post by Hakuga on Feb 3, 2016 0:55:06 GMT -5
Thank you, Saionji-hime I had my 21st century SCA-dian hat on, and completely forgot about the panels- the seamstress would have a somewhat easier job then, with only a few albeit very long seams with raw edges. The scissors are very pretty- but would silver hold an edge well? My (Fujiwara) grandmother had a pair much like them, though it was bronze.
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Saionji Shonagon
New Member
One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Sewing
Feb 3, 2016 16:54:34 GMT -5
Post by Saionji Shonagon on Feb 3, 2016 16:54:34 GMT -5
I've no idea how well silver holds an edge, but I doubt they would be using it if it didn't work. BTW, this might be of interest. The stitches are based on extant examples of European textiles, but you might find some hand finishing treatments you like. heatherrosejones.com/archaeologicalsewing/
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Sewing
Feb 4, 2016 19:41:19 GMT -5
Post by Please Delete on Feb 4, 2016 19:41:19 GMT -5
Regarding the mo, the panels are cut, always one side on the selvedge, and then they are sewn together in an accordion fashion that puts all the selvedge together towards the floor and the bias up, where it won't drag along things all the time (ideally). Combined with the starching and weave of the fabric, I suspect that did a lot to help prevent too much fraying. They also didn't throw them in the washing machine, of course.
The edge seems are often finished with a small rolled edge. Many of the garments were lined, so the seams are protected, for the most part. I've had some success with using things like Fray Check to help prevent fraying and allowing me to use the cut seams act like they are selvedge. It isn't perfect, and you want to test a small section before using too much. It can make the edges a bit hard and scratchy.
-Ii
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 4, 2016 21:26:21 GMT -5
For just about all of my sewing projects, I cut 60 and 45 inch wide fabric into 15 inch panels before I do anything else. On the cut edges, I use a serger to create false selvedges to simulate period-width fabric. This catches me some flack from people who don't understand why I do it, but c'est la vie.
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Sewing
Feb 4, 2016 22:41:53 GMT -5
Post by Yamanouchi Eidou on Feb 4, 2016 22:41:53 GMT -5
For just about all of my sewing projects, I cut 60 and 45 inch wide fabric into 15 inch panels before I do anything else.
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