Hakama Construction

[Iriye]

Good evening, 'countrymen'!

I have completed a pair of hakama for my son, who you see as 'Draco' around here once in a while.... he is very happy with them, but I am unhappy with them and would like to learn from the experience of others as I try another set for my 9 year old son....

I used a central panel, or 'gore' on the first set, as per a very short mention at www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Jap123s.html

which instructions I am sorely disappointed in, as they do not address the belting or pleats.

I used that information from Raito-dono www.raito.com/clothing.htm

and Koredono-dono's at www.dementia.org/~djl/sca/japanese/patterns.html


I'm thinking that I made the sashes incorrectly as I tried to make them pass through a tube in the back, like modern karate 'gi' --- instead of having the back tied in front, then the front wrapped and finally tied and tucked over everything in the front --- do I make any sense?

Also, the mid-crotch ease ---- would a six-inch square be sufficient --- much like the underarm square of a T-tunic? My modern 'gi' has this feature, as does an indigo set of hakama given me by a friend, but is not there in a set of black polyester hakama worn by another friend who practices aikido. Oh, and I don't think it is in the modern hakama pattern from Folkwear, either. If I had the energy, I'd go downstairs and look, but I've been pretty ill. No energy tonight.

What think you, wise ones?

Appreciatively,

Rizii

[Saionji Shonagon]

Rizii said:

Good evening, 'countrymen'!

I used a central panel, or 'gore' on the first set, as per a very short mention at www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Jap123s.html

which instructions I am sorely disappointed in, as they do not address the belting or pleats.

They're a bit sketchy instructionwise, however, as I indicated on sca-jml, those instructions are specifically for women's nabagakama.

Rizii said:

and Koredono-dono's at www.dementia.org/~djl/sca/japanese/patterns.html

Reason you shouldn't be reading instructions when you're sick, silly girl! Lo and behold, Sir Kore's directions HAVE a crotch gusset! So do Baron Edward's directions in the "files" section at sca-jml. Kass' nabagakama do not (not that they need 'em. I'm not a little person and mine are plenty roomy). Depending on how you're scaling the rest of the garment for your boy will probably affect how large or small the gusset ends up being. You might try basting it in and putting it on the victim to check fit. Easier to pull out basting stitches than attach double-lock machine stitch with a seam ripper if you do need to make an adjustment.

While I've never made men's hakama, I looked at Effy-dono's pdf file and his instructions made sense to me. His suggestion of folding the himo into fourths will give you a sturdy waistband, even without the back flap thingy.

Rizii said:

I'm thinking that I made the sashes incorrectly as I tried to make them pass through a tube in the back, like modern karate 'gi' --- instead of having the back tied in front, then the front wrapped and finally tied and tucked over everything in the front --- do I make any sense?

(I will not say I told you so. I will not say I told you so. I will not - oh. Too late. ) Sometimes, you shouldn't fix what's not broken.

Best of luck,
Makiwara

[Iriye]

Ah---- you told me so! You did! You did!

And like the willful child I am, I didn't listen very closely, did I?

I did go back and re-look at all the patterns and their 'crotch treatments' today. A LOT slower this time and like 3 times reading. Crotch gussets I can do... I've made play pants for the boys as toddlers and put the gussets in, and also for the underarm ease in T-tunics.

Just wasn't sure what was period or not, because I let the gore vs gusset issue tangle up what few working ganglions are left upstairs.

I think I can do the waistband/sash thing now, as well..... so much for trying to re-invent the wheel, much less fix what's not broken, lol......

More detailed reply over at sca-jml...... and thanks for bearing with me.

Rizii