|
|
Post by Michimasa on Mar 3, 2005 11:59:26 GMT -5
Greetings to you, A very usefull site as I'm currently making garbs for my wife :-) I'm currently reading through the article before beginning and I'm confuse about a measurement. The first sketche give 8 1/2 inches by 18 1/2 inches for the sode. But the cutting layout sketche give 17 inches by 30 inches for the sode. I can't figure how to related those numbers...since it should fold on the 30 inches wise it would give a piece or 17 inches by 15 inches and not 8 1/2 inches by 18 1/2 inches event if I take in account the seam allowance  I need your help :-) Mik |
|
|
|
Post by Michimasa on Mar 3, 2005 15:58:38 GMT -5
One more question. In the eri section you refer to a kosode at the Tokyo National Museum (a very fine piece actually and very good photo). Is it an optic illusion or does the Eri actually is larger at bottom then at top (not rectangular) ?
Also, still the the eri section, the sketche "figure6.jpg" show the eri making some "S" shape to join to the okumi, how do you do this without ripple ?
Mik
|
|
Saionji Shonagon
New Member
One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
|
Post by Saionji Shonagon on Mar 3, 2005 22:11:13 GMT -5
Hello, Mik,
The first sketch is based on my examination of photos of actual period garments which have proportionately narrow sleeves. In order to get that proportion even on the graph paper, the body panels work out to be a little wider than 17" if you go strictly by 1" per grid square. Don't worry about it. If you cut using the cutting guide, you'll be OK.
Period fabrics ran approximately 16" to 17" wide - remember, this is before standardized industrial looms and all. Neither is wrong. Use which ever you like to establish the fabric width you're going to cut your kosode to. If you need the extra inch to play with, take it. If you're building kosode for someone small, you can always scale downward to get the right profile. That's how the Japanese size kimono to this very day: small wearer = wide seam allowances. (And if you're building something for a very large person, you can tweak your panel widths up too!)
Depending on your lady's measurements, if you cut the sode using the layout figures, that gives you plenty of extra width to play with in case you need it. I'm broad shouldered and long armed, so with my wingspan I use a full 17" wide sleeve to create the illusion of being small and dainty in a big kosode. Someone smaller can use a narrower sleeve. To figure out what'll fit, pin or baste the back seam up. Drape it on your wife. Take the sleeve panels you've cut and pin them into the shoulder seam to see where they fall. If her hands vanish, take them up until her hands are visible. Leave an allowance for the finished sleeve hole, but once you get to wrist length, she's good to go.
Regarding the kosode image at TNM, I think it's probably an optical illusion. It doesn't make sense for the eri not to be rectangular.
The eri is the trickiest bit. You may find it easiest to do this on the intended wearer (or a dressmaker's form, assuming you have one). Having her in it allows you to make sure the eri is attached correctly as the front of the garment falls over the solid volume of her body - as opposed to a flat table. Put it on her inside out, find the center of the eri strip and pin it to the center back of the body where the back seam ends at the top. Working your way around one side at a time, pin the eri to the edge around her neck. As you come around to the front, you have to angle it so that it cuts across the top of the okumi and ends along the okumi edge. If you look at the period examples, the eri takes a straight dive down the front at an angle, so that the okumi has a triangular top. You can do it that way, which is perfectly ok, or you can put a little curve into it, which is how I ended up drawing it. I've made kosode both ways, both work, and the straight line way is a little easier. If she's curvy and you can get it symmetrical, it may be a little more flattering. Again, either will work. After you've got the eri edge pinned in place and even, you can sew it down. Then take it to the ironing board and press it over so you can blindstitch the other edge to the inside.
I hope this helps! Feel free to drop me a note with any questions, either here or at makiwara_no_yetsuko at yahoo dot com
M.
|
|
|
|
Post by Michimasa on Mar 15, 2005 19:09:42 GMT -5
Makiwara-hime,
Many thanks for your help. I finish the white kosode yesterday and I think it is decent. Well at least from my skill point of vue :-) Now I have to make an otherone to put over it....
Michimasa ( I decide to switch from my other nickname Mik to Michimasa as it seem more appropriate to this board)
|
|
Saionji Shonagon
New Member
One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
|
Post by Saionji Shonagon on Mar 15, 2005 21:08:42 GMT -5
Makiwara-hime, Many thanks for your help. I finish the white kosode yesterday and I think it is decent. Well at least from my skill point of vue :-) Now I have to make an otherone to put over it.... Yay for you, Michimasa-dono! Glad to have been of assistance. M. |
|
|
|
Post by Nagamochi on Jun 29, 2005 0:49:01 GMT -5
I'm so confused!
Today I started to make some kosode for my servants, but I feel I've cut the sode wrong. I had my pagegirl try one on for fit since she's the the one I'll have the most problems with such, and with 18 inch square sleeves, not to mention the same width for the migoro, prior to hemming and selvage, her arms are practically swimming in material. It looks as if I've put hitoe sleeves on the wrong piece. I checked my Big Sis's website directions and I feel I've followed them right, or have a made a minor error?
Ja me ta
Nagamochi
|
|
Saionji Shonagon
New Member
One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
|
Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 29, 2005 1:06:04 GMT -5
It sounds like your friend is on the small side. All you have to do is change the scale you're working in.
Here's how: Have her stand with her arms extended to either side at shoulder height and measure her from wrist to wrist.
Divide this measurement by 4. Add back an inch to cover seam allowances. This should give you a number to base your sode and migoro widths scaled to her body size. If the sode seem overly long at this point, you may want to reduce them too. They should fall no lower than her natural waistline.
Masahide-dono used this method to increase garment scale to fit himself and it works.
Let me know how it works out.
Good luck!
M.
|
|
|
|
Post by Please Delete on Jun 29, 2005 5:58:06 GMT -5
BTW, if you aren't sure about your personal seam allowances remember--with Japanese clothing its usually better to go a little larger than smaller.
-Ii
|
|
