Silk Weight/Type

[adarael]

When I was younger, I took the first of many trips to Japantown in San Francisco with my father. While there, I picked up - of all things - a book on Samurai arms, armor, clothing, et cetera. One might say I was 'quite impressed' at that young age. One particular garment stuck out for me - the kataginu kamishimo. Since that young age, said outfit has been my favorite ensemble to imagine samurai wearing.

Being of very late period and enamoured of this garment, I've decided I need to make a kataginu kamishimo... but I've run into a problem.

I have no idea what type or weight of silk to make either the kataginu or hakama out of. None whatsoever. Nor do I know what type would be good to make a kariginu out of. My solution for earlier clothes was to go to the local kimono and kimono fabric store down the road, but it's gone out of business.

What would you wise individuals suggest?

[Saionji Shonagon]

I have no idea what type or weight of silk to make either the kataginu or hakama out of. None whatsoever. Nor do I know what type would be good to make a kariginu out of.

I'll defer to the fellows who have made these, but I should think you'd want something with a bit of body for kataginu and hakama or they'll hang limply and won't drape right. I believe Sir Koredono has stated that he likes fuji broadcloth - I haven't worked with it myself, but you can get undyed yardage (and dye it whatever color you like) through Silk Connection.
www.silkconnection.com/products/fabric/silk/fuji/

Dupioni is slubby - it has those bumps and irregularities in the weave that the fabric industry likes to tell us enhances its beauty and character. Our forebears would've considered it inferior, however, if you can find a machine woven dupioni that's not too lumpy, it often has a good body to it. I made a red and gold kosode out of it and it's got a rustly quality not unlike taffeta - or a nylon windbreaker.

IIRC, Ii-dono's red kataginu kamishimo is linen, which is a good substitute for hemp. www.fabrics-store.com carries linen in a good selection of colors. Linen holds creases and breathes like a dream in hot weather. You MUST fell, serge or bind your seams, though, because it will fray. Since nobody seems to want to smoke flax plants, it may be easier and a little less expensive than hemp anyway.

I think you can go with a somewhat drapier silk for a kataginu.

Gentlemen? I know some of you have made this stuff. I have the blackmail pictures to prove it. Can you offer tips?

S.

[Saionji Shonagon]

Oh, BTW, ask online fabric sellers for swatches if you're not sure. Most of them are happy to send them for a modest price.

S.

[Please Delete]

Well, what kind of kataginu-kamishimo are you thinking of? There is this:

That's a 16th century kataginu kamishimo, and I've seen it done with linen--anything that has a good body, really. This particular outfit is based off of a painting of Oda Nobunaga, iirc.

Then there is the Edo period:


(all images taken from Kyoto Costume Museum)

The former is rather simple. It is basically just a rectangle. The latter is more complex, and I believe it was even stiffened with bamboo boning at some point (I seem to recall that from Jidai Isho no Nuikata, but can't quite recall--I can look it up if you are interested in that form, though).

Note: the latter is exclusively post-1600, as far as I can tell.

-Ii

[adarael]

Definitely the first. The second is A) Edo period, and B) kind of anemic in the chest and swoopy at the shoulders, which is not really my favorite look. The earlier styles just seem much more robust and austere to me.

[Please Delete]

In that case, you can go with something more like linen if you want. Otherwise, you need a really stiff and, preferrably, thin silk, and I'm not sure where you would find it without starching it within a momme of its life.

Here, this is a repro that was made for "Aoi: Three Generations of Tokugawa" and it was on display at Hikone castle as part of the museum and an example of the garment type as would have been owned and worn by Ii Naomasa: