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Post by Kagami Tomoko on May 28, 2015 0:44:03 GMT -5
Have you been here yet? wodefordhall.com/CC26doc.htm explains how I did mine. I basically used a lot of habotai and added linings in cotton to add stiffness and body - not accurate, but I couldn't afford the real thing. Another option is to starch the everlivingcrap out of things to give them the necessary body. So I understand that the habotai that you purchased was lined in cotton for your ensemble for multiple reasons but especially to give the ensemble the right stiffness and body. If budget was no option, what would be the accurate method of applying stiffness and body? Would a double layer of silk habotai at 16mm be enough? Having never inspected an extant example, it's hard to make out the details of these things. Many of the garments I'm reading about online and in Dalby's book are using raw silk or crazy expensive silks. The raw silk provided by dharma appears to be different compared to the period pieces. Plus, it's hard to dye raw silk in an even color. I find that a bit of heathered look occurs. Have you found this to be true as well? As you know, I have been dying with multiple silk types and silk Dupion at 19mm seems to hold it's own in the stiffness and body categories. However, the silk doesn't bend or drape well against the weft but perhaps that is a livable attribute? I'm hoping to purchase enough to start hand sewing the Hitoe but I want to be sure I have the right type of silk. Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated. |
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on May 28, 2015 1:26:00 GMT -5
If budget was no option, what would be the accurate method of applying stiffness and body? Would a double layer of silk habotai at 16mm be enough? Having never inspected an extant example, it's hard to make out the details of these things. Nope, if budget were unlimited, I would be buying the correct textiles from weavers in Kyoto! The raw silk you bought from Dharma is NOT the raw silk that existed in period. Modern "raw silk" or noil is made by salvaging the short or broken fibers that are a byproduct of spinning and weaving and weaving those into fabric. That's why it's got an uneven texture - and why it may be taking the dye the way it is. It may also be prone to pilling. Period raw silk was a plain, flat weave as opposed to a silk with a glossy finish. You cannot get the "right" silk for this at Dharma. Take a deep breath and live with the fact that anything you end up using is going to require a compromise. (The real stuff costs a fortune for good reason and there are a finite number of sources in Japan making it.) |
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Post by Kagami Tomoko on May 28, 2015 23:11:34 GMT -5
Nope, if budget were unlimited, I would be buying the correct textiles from weavers in Kyoto! Touche!  The raw silk you bought from Dharma is NOT the raw silk that existed in period. Modern "raw silk" or noil is made by salvaging the short or broken fibers that are a byproduct of spinning and weaving and weaving those into fabric. That's why it's got an uneven texture - and why it may be taking the dye the way it is. It may also be prone to pilling. Period raw silk was a plain, flat weave as opposed to a silk with a glossy finish. You cannot get the "right" silk for this at Dharma. Take a deep breath and live with the fact that anything you end up using is going to require a compromise. (The real stuff costs a fortune for good reason and there are a finite number of sources in Japan making it.) I'm game for the compromise. I'm just unsure how much of a compromise I want to make or am willing to pay for in order to negotiate the compromise. A wise man once told me "Perfect is the enemy of good, or even the great." Just thought I'd get a temperature check. Thanks again for tagging along on this journey. |
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on May 29, 2015 12:36:33 GMT -5
Yeah, silk can get expensive very quickly. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
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Post by Deleted on May 30, 2015 7:11:15 GMT -5
So I understand that the habotai that you purchased was lined in cotton for your ensemble for multiple reasons but especially to give the ensemble the right stiffness and body. If budget was no option, what would be the accurate method of applying stiffness and body? I've been doing some silk painting for a banner lately, and to keep the brush strokes from bleeding along the threads I pre-applied a sizing. This stuff soaked in, then dried, and really did give the thin silk a stiffness and smoothness almost like heavy paper. Is it possible that the fabric weights we are using are just fine, but we are not using them correctly? Should we be starching everything heavily to produce the structure we want? |
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