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Post by Please Delete on Aug 30, 2014 19:48:35 GMT -5
That looks okay. I would make the bottom boards even wider, personally. Other than that, it looks much better!
-Ii
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Post by Tecwyn on Sept 2, 2014 7:28:31 GMT -5
What I did was make each lame just one hole larger. So each one increased by 8mm, first is 17 holes last is 21. If I try and make the bottom wider than I will end up with blank space or I will have to increase the amount of holes but I don't know how to lace it if lets say the last 2 boards have been increased by 2 holes. I can make all the boards bigger but then I go back to my orginal problem of that I cannot fit 7 around my Do without major overlap. I don't know how I can get them wider without causing issue. Here is my Kusazuri plan, when printed its to scale: i.imgur.com/j69MVJ9.jpgI am current also having other problems with the lacing, to lace something like the sode with different colours you surely have to use a new bit of lace for that section, red lace, orange lace repeat, but what do you do with the end of the lace? Just cut it off, how do you hid the end to make it look nice? It cant possible be one bit of lace that changes colour throughout? The lace that hangs the kusazuri from the Do how do you tidy that up in the inside? is this lace also the lace that laces the Do? How do you even get inside a Maru-do, like a jumper? Still too many questions. Edit (17:30 GMT+0): I have made a mock up of the Sendan-no-ita, it also gave me some lacing practice and right away. I have some issues: 2 holes are un-used, Where/how does the Kedate suspenory lace end. 1: Do you cut off the end of the lace and start again with a new lace? In the picture you can see I just pulled it down to the right and used it again for the next lame. 2: I have 2 un-used holes, The black lace under the screw driver is the last lace in the lame, I pulled it down to use for the end lame. Same column on end lame I have the second un-used hole. I'm not sure how I am ment to use this two holes unless I lace where the edge lacing should go and then overlap it with the red lace. Any answers or feedback will be really appreciated! - Tecwyn
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Post by roninpenguin on Sept 2, 2014 23:45:18 GMT -5
#1 - Cut and start over, lacing like that gives your armor a place it can hang up on other stuff. #2 - I honestly don't know what was done in period, but I just do another pas and double up under the Mimi Ito. Also I know you are just testing but just remember to watch the "Pucker" on your laces while you lace, it makes a huge difference in the look of your lacing when you are done.
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Post by Please Delete on Sept 3, 2014 5:20:55 GMT -5
As far as #2, you often have a "straight" lace to go with the diagonal lacing, on either side. It is common to have to double up now and again to get the right look, or any time you have more holes in one board v. the other.
Ii
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Post by Tecwyn on Sept 3, 2014 5:29:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply, both of you! Ok, I'm not sure but if I cut it right at the end of the hole can I seal it off with plastic/Resin instead of leaving a bit to hang? like here: nihon-no-katchu.proboards.com/thread/629/kebiki-odoshi-guide-bottomley-thatcherYes, I was testing and I hide it under the Mini Ito, so I would aim for each lame to finish in that top left or right so I can hide it. you can see here on the top right, I hide the black lace under the mini ito, you can see the 2 other holes that were unused. i.imgur.com/2ZtX6Uf.jpg I guess with what you two have said this is the thing to do. Thing is I think I just forced the hole larger on the ones where both laced used, is it acceptable to make those slightly larger or try my best to make it fit in the 0.15" hole? When I was lacing the lace kept getting twisted and I had to keep untwisting it? Is this what you are refering too, I do not know what the "Pucker" is.
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Post by roninpenguin on Sept 6, 2014 0:16:10 GMT -5
"Pucker" is the fold of the lace in the hole. When the lace goes through the hole it has to fold up in order to go through it, your goal is to not have the fold in the middle of the lace, but have the lace fold around the edges so it lays flatter and the sides push themselves out. For example here is your lacing (look specifically at the bottom of your red Mimi Ito). You will notice how the lace edges fold up and to the center creating a valley in the middle of the lace. This keeps the lace from looking as full as it should. Now here is a picture from the article you posted from the "Samurai Armor Forum". See how his laces the edges fold UNDER the lace as they go in, this give the lacing a much fuller appearance and really squares it off the way it is suppose to. The way you do this is by taking a second as you are finishing pulling your laces through, take a look to make sure the fold in the lace is in the right direction, and if it isn't just give it either a twist or pinch as you finish pulling the laces through. If you don't do this then over time your laces will fold upwards and "Shrink" because it will roll onto its self.
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Post by roninpenguin on Sept 6, 2014 0:18:03 GMT -5
Also, you would be surprise at how much lace you can get through those holes, you should be okay without making the holes larger.
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Post by Tecwyn on Sept 6, 2014 5:30:43 GMT -5
Thank you! Yeseterday I spent about 8 hours lacing a Sode, this is all before that advice but looking at it know I can see what you mean! some of the laces a bit sideways or smaller than the rest. I also learnt that 180CM lace can lace 23 holes, while 130cm can only lace 17. I have to lace a strange pattern in because my redlace just ran out too soon so I then had to replace it with orange! then the orange ran out and one little bit isnt laced. Pic with explaining text: i.imgur.com/ktUGTfk.jpg , Alt pic: imgur.com/1PwXeHz , Alt Pic: i.imgur.com/qs1KPUI.jpgThis was done before your advice an average look at the lacing. Bottom left orange section ran out of lace just before finishing . I dont like the colour style but I didn't really try to do one I just used the lace at first, then thought I would try something but ran out.
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Post by Tecwyn on Nov 22, 2014 18:37:12 GMT -5
Hi guys, Can someone tell me how workable ABS Plastic sheets are? I am looking at buying for example a 500mm X 250mm X 4mm sheet to make a Sode. I don't have any experience with plastics so I don't know how hard they are to cut into pieces. Can you use hand saws? Or will I have to use something like a table saw? Should I go for any other type of plastic? What do you guys think? I hope someone sees this didn't want to make a whole new post. This is the type of stuff I have seen for sale: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Black-ABS-Plastic-Sheets-500mmx250mmx4mm-NOT-Perspex-Acrylic-PVC-A4-A3-/261153487694
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2014 9:07:10 GMT -5
I don't make armor, but I have watched lots of people do it. Can someone tell me how workable ABS Plastic sheets are? They seem to cut well, but can be difficult to shape if you need curves. You'll need a heat gun, or an extra oven you never plan to use for food again. Most people seem to use table saws or handheld jig saws. One benefit with jig saws is that it's possible to get blades that are meant for plastics. I've seen people use Kydex, which is a kind of acrylic/pvc hybrid. It might be easier to work, but it also seems to be a little more brittle. In the long run, it doesn't hold up to the kind of punishment that SCA armor absorbs. Many of the regulars here keep up with the whole forum using the "Recent Posts" option that's available in the bottom section of the main forum page. Post anywhere that seems to make sense, and we'll see it.
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Post by Tecwyn on Oct 4, 2015 10:47:12 GMT -5
I'm still going at it. Not sure how many people are surfing this site still but I'm slowly making my way and confused as ever. I finished both my O-Sode. They are made from plastic lames. Loads of people here use metal but that's just not an option for me. I messed up a lot, made a fatel mistake even though I saw in my notes I made it clear to not make that mistake but oh well. This is a costume and my very first attempt so mistakes are made, only those who know what to look for will see them. I havent added the final part on the top, because they need to be thick and I'm debating weither or not to use the material to create this thickness by layoring my plastic material. I don't want to order more what is much thicker for these 2 points. Picture to help explain what I'm talking about i.imgur.com/TbQc8u7.jpgAlso still confused how people add the nice fabric, I can simply glue it all on but the brass edging people add around is much nicer and more complex Picture: i.imgur.com/ibPjJxw.jpgMy next thing is either make the kusazuri or the Do. I know how to do the kusazuri so I want to do that because at least I make progress, but I really want to do the Do but I'm still unclear. Last week I was in japan I took great pictures of Yoroi but stupidly I forgot to look at how the Do's connect. The only style of Do I understand is the ones that need the cowards plate at the back but I do not wish to do that style of Do. If there is anyone here can you please tell me how these Do's work. The way I will want to do mine is 5 laced lames and then the clear Munaita part aswell. Though not sure how people add the fabric so nicely. For the kusazuri my plan is 5 lames, 145mm-155-165-175-185, giving each 1 a new hole. This is the understanding I have. I'm going to have to look into how to keep my plastic bent. I would hate to drill all the holes and then destory it all with a heat gun. I can sence much pain in this part of the build.
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Post by Please Delete on Oct 4, 2015 17:46:57 GMT -5
I assume you are talking about the "kanmuri-ita" at the top. I am not aware that it, itself, is actually any thicker, but I think you are looking at the wooden strip(s) at the top. See here: www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.ch12.html"Cut out two strips of wood about 1/4" thick, 1/2" wide, and the length of your sode. Place one kanmuri ita behind a wood strip, and drill through the three pairs of holes. These holes will take the ornamental rivets that hold the ichi-no-ita — the first lame — to the kanmuri ita." That will give you that thickness and it provides what you want for the ornamental rivets. The fabric (printed leather) should be attached with something like glue or rubber cement, after you have prepared the kanmuri-ita for the kozakura-byo rivets that hold on the decorative edging. You'll want another leather to cover the wood strips (typically they had different patterns for each). For looking at the type of do, check this out: www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.ch06.htmlAlternatively, find a picture of what you think you want and we can work from there. -Ii
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Post by Tecwyn on Oct 5, 2015 11:51:22 GMT -5
The thing I was talking about saying thicker is the like 10mm rasied part (see attachement), where the Kanmuri-ita is added onto. If I use wood it would really stand out as everything else is black plastic. I may just use some waste material and stack/glue 2 bits of my plastic to create a thick wedge to create that part. I wont be able to do it how its ment to be done as I'm working plastic sheets. The thing is I dont understand any of that type of Do. It's all meaningless to me. How do you tie them shut? Is it like a door hinge, how do you keep them close if it is? How do you do a clam shell, they seem to overlap but what do you do to keep them together? How does the Do maru work if its all one part? It surely must felex in some way so you can open it? What is used to keep that o-yoroi style closed? I don't get any of it. Sorry. Attachments:
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Post by Please Delete on Oct 9, 2015 18:07:12 GMT -5
The thing I was talking about saying thicker is the like 10mm rasied part (see attachement), where the Kanmuri-ita is added onto. If I use wood it would really stand out as everything else is black plastic. I may just use some waste material and stack/glue 2 bits of my plastic to create a thick wedge to create that part. I wont be able to do it how its ment to be done as I'm working plastic sheets. The thing is I dont understand any of that type of Do. It's all meaningless to me. How do you tie them shut? Is it like a door hinge, how do you keep them close if it is? How do you do a clam shell, they seem to overlap but what do you do to keep them together? How does the Do maru work if its all one part? It surely must felex in some way so you can open it? What is used to keep that o-yoroi style closed? I don't get any of it. Sorry. The wood should be covered in leather, as in the example picture you showed. With the leather on the upper part it should match. Weather you use plastic or wood, you want to have the leather there, ideally. The o-yoroi opens on the side. That's why there is a side plate (waki-ita). You put on the wakiita, first, which has ties to go around your body. The do itself is U-shaped, and opens on the right hand side (where the wakiita sits). You wear a type of obi around to keep it together, and there is usually a cord to tie it shut. The watagami go over the shoulders. The sode are attached to the watagami and then they tie to the agemaki in the back (that's what the ring is for) so that they don't slump too far forward and get in the way. For the domaru, there is flex in the kozane style, and my understanding is that the old ones flexed open. Made of individual scales of lacquered leather, there is some flex to those types. Later on you had hinges (like piano hinges). There is usually a tie or toggle on the side that keeps it closed.
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Post by Tecwyn on Apr 2, 2016 4:37:01 GMT -5
Update! Been slow going due to university but I've made some progress and some mistakes. Here is the Kusazuri and the Sode. I made the Kusazuri to the initial plan for the Do but then I reworked the Do but by then I already made the Kusazuri so they are all 1 hole larger and it's causing me issues but this is a first attempt so issues and problems are to be expected. (Larger Image at-> i.imgur.com/Hsju1Sx.jpg)I started heat gunning my Do lames, the drape forming station I built really didn't turn out well enough so I am doing it all by hand. The issue as I mention above is that the front lames can fit 3 kusazuri and have 6 holes left over at each side. While the back needs an additional 4 holes, but this isn't correct either as having my back lames at 525cm would make it too large, so I would need to lower it down to around 485 which means I need a total of 8 holes. So I am going to have to make the Kusazuri share holes. This isn't what I wanted to happen, but its the situation I have. Also side note, always heat gun the inside what isn't seen so the outside still looks nice. I learnt this after making my first two.
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