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Post by kirishitan on Dec 20, 2014 0:04:27 GMT -5
I only have time to work on my armor during Xmas and Summer breaks, so I haven't posted in a LONG time. However, I'm finished my haidate, suneate, & kote (FINALLY) and am working on the Mogami Sode. My goal is historically accurate display, not SCA. However, after working with the patterns from Katchu, I'm not sure they're quite right? (http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/mogamiPattern.PDF) Namely the Kanmuri ita has the bend in it which the top lame ( ichi no ita) rivets to. But the edge of the ichi no ita is straight while the kanmuri ita has a gentle curve due to the bend. The result is the two pieces don't fit, the holes don't line up, etc. See top photo below of 22 gauge test pieces. If you can see from the bottom picture above, I've tried modifying the pattern by joining the two pieces, but then the middle of the ichi no ita ends up be "longer/bigger" than the at the edges when the 2nd lame is added (such that the exposed shape of the ichi no ita forms a half moon. It would work, but it would look wrong (bc it is wrong). I'll keep tinkering with the patterns to see if I can get the proper fit, but if anybody else has successfully made a historic mogami sode, please let me know if there is an elegant way to get these pieces to nest. Thanks!
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Post by roninpenguin on Dec 20, 2014 23:21:13 GMT -5
I just used the holes from one side and then marked my holes for the other side.
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Post by kirishitan on Dec 21, 2014 8:55:07 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply. That's good advice for when I start working on the 2nd sode, but how do I get the two top pieces of each sode to nest? Right now the shapes of the two pieces curve in two different directions,
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Post by kirishitan on Dec 22, 2014 15:33:13 GMT -5
I switched to the tsubo sode pattern and it fits MUCH better.
I also have my hasso plates and decorative rivets. However, I fear they won't have the strength to hold the plates together. Short of saudering the underside, do you all have any suggestions?
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Post by kirishitan on Dec 22, 2014 23:19:54 GMT -5
Do mogami sode have tomegawa and the corresponding extra small holes at the bottom of the lame like the do does? (http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/sugake.PDF)
Or are they suppose to be more flexible?
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Post by Please Delete on Dec 23, 2014 0:27:34 GMT -5
Do mogami sode have tomegawa and the corresponding extra small holes at the bottom of the lame like the do does? (http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/sugake.PDF) Or are they suppose to be more flexible? They should be more flexible. Only sode like the oosode on an oyoroi should really be solid. Ii
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Post by kirishitan on Dec 23, 2014 16:01:03 GMT -5
Here's my mock-up in rough cut 22-gauge and only 3 lames (final will have 5). I need to move the cords that attach to the kote, since I didn't account for the size of the hasso (this is why you do a mock up), and I now see how long it is going to take to do a proper sugake odoshi since the laces need a lot of attention to lay flat and "poof" on the correct side (I only did black here, the outside edges will be white, and the bottom (which will match all the kusazari) will either be orange to match my foundation fabric or gold depending on what I can procure). I may wire the kanmuri to the top lame and then cover it with the hasso to give it a little more structural integrity. I also need to curve the lames better so they sit on on another better. I don't have a slip roll (or access to one), is they're a better method to getting an exact curve for all 10 lames aside from wrapping them around a cylinder?
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Post by kirishitan on Jan 7, 2015 17:42:05 GMT -5
What diameter cord are you all using for the kohaze on the kote, sode and watagami?
I was thinking of using 1/4" nylon (pictures above), but wasn't sure if that was too thick or didn't look right.
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Post by kirishitan on Jan 11, 2015 17:05:52 GMT -5
Punched all the holes. Still trying to find the right size for the frog cords. Thinking they're smaller than 1/4"... Is paracord the right size or is that way too small?
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Lash
New Member
perfection isnt an end result but a path to walk upon with your eyes closed.
Posts: 422
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Post by Lash on Jan 12, 2015 1:03:37 GMT -5
wow excellent work!!
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Post by roninpenguin on Jan 13, 2015 11:44:26 GMT -5
Well your lacing should match the size of your holes in a 1 to 3(ish) measurement. I typically use 3/8" lace so my holes are 1/8". If you are using 1/4" cord then you should be using close to a 1/12" hole (which would be more of 1/16 because I don't think I've seen a 1/12 inch bit).
But what is throwing me is the laces pictured look a lot larger than 1/4", could they be a different size?
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jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Post by jon on Jan 13, 2015 14:13:06 GMT -5
With paracord I used a 1/8 bit as its a pain to get through if its any smaller.
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Post by kirishitan on Jan 14, 2015 17:32:02 GMT -5
After rereading Bryant's section on Before Beginning I did manage to find the hole sizing of the kozane. He never states an explicit size, but the pdf pattern can be measured since theyre shown as "actual size". As I suspected, the kozane for Sode and are smaller than those which connect the watagami to the do.
I believe my lacing is ~3/8, and the holes 1/8, but I can't recall for certain. I'll probably put 1/8 holes for the kozane too and use paracord. I'm currently adding the "lip" to the edges of the lames, and hope to prep the metal for painting/laqeur this weekend.
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Lash
New Member
perfection isnt an end result but a path to walk upon with your eyes closed.
Posts: 422
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Post by Lash on Jan 14, 2015 23:18:01 GMT -5
remember that some paracord you can pull the white center out to get a semi nice flat cord . makes it easier to pull thru as it makes better points when melted.
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Post by kirishitan on Mar 30, 2015 13:17:39 GMT -5
Sorry, I haven't died, but I'm in deep in paper writing for school. I also had several problems that slowed me down. 1st i took me a few tries to get a good "lip" on the edges, but now have a "dipping" technique using thick paint and 400grit sandpaper (by hand which takes forever). 2nd the color I have been using all along was discontinued, so I learned how to punch open old spray cans to salvage remaining paint. Wish me luck with color matching a gloss paint... 3rd procurement problems on the lacing. I'm using 5/16 shoelace (cuz I'm cheap and really can't tell the difference) and one of the colors I'd ordered is out of stock. Here's where I'm currently at. I should have more lacing process soon.
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