Post by yumehime on Jun 23, 2016 9:28:48 GMT -5
link
I thought with my 'kosode fitting project' it would be a good ideal to start reviewing period examples of clothing. sadly, most of the images i can find are for 'over kosode', as in the upper most layer that was often not even tied closed in Muromachi, not the base layer that everything else went over. No great shock. who cares about plain white underclothing when you can ooh and ahh over the skilled silk work of upper layers. To further complicate the review, the woman's examples mostly come from Noh theater, meaning the upper layers were all fitted for men who would be playing dramatic impersonations of women, not actual women, so they can tell me a lot about fabrics and colors, but not how women actually dress.
Then I found the 'sacred treasure' collection. funny, the pale 'seashore train' style of divided skirt/trouser never showed in the images I've seen. Perhaps I've been looking at the wrong painting/replica/anime to notice these apparently fashionable pants. The site even gives me a length measurement so I can tell you that on my 5'foot frame, these would trail by 56cm/22 inches if I tied them high, and the image seems to indicate that the side I can see is made from a single panel.
It's the 47.4 cm measurement I'm a bit unclear on. Is that the waist measurement? And is that just the front, or the total waste section factoring in the hip openings? Or is that the apparent panel width?
It may still be a garment that wasn't built around a woman since it was made as an offering, but since there seem to be so few existent hakama examples for women I thought it was worth a look. Guesses on the second measurement are welcome.
I thought with my 'kosode fitting project' it would be a good ideal to start reviewing period examples of clothing. sadly, most of the images i can find are for 'over kosode', as in the upper most layer that was often not even tied closed in Muromachi, not the base layer that everything else went over. No great shock. who cares about plain white underclothing when you can ooh and ahh over the skilled silk work of upper layers. To further complicate the review, the woman's examples mostly come from Noh theater, meaning the upper layers were all fitted for men who would be playing dramatic impersonations of women, not actual women, so they can tell me a lot about fabrics and colors, but not how women actually dress.
Then I found the 'sacred treasure' collection. funny, the pale 'seashore train' style of divided skirt/trouser never showed in the images I've seen. Perhaps I've been looking at the wrong painting/replica/anime to notice these apparently fashionable pants. The site even gives me a length measurement so I can tell you that on my 5'foot frame, these would trail by 56cm/22 inches if I tied them high, and the image seems to indicate that the side I can see is made from a single panel.
It's the 47.4 cm measurement I'm a bit unclear on. Is that the waist measurement? And is that just the front, or the total waste section factoring in the hip openings? Or is that the apparent panel width?
It may still be a garment that wasn't built around a woman since it was made as an offering, but since there seem to be so few existent hakama examples for women I thought it was worth a look. Guesses on the second measurement are welcome.