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Post by oravainen on Aug 19, 2010 16:40:08 GMT -5
I'm just getting a katana blade from darkwood armory for C&T, and I started to wonder about the points of balance on period japanese swords.
My katana has a point of balance about 5 and a half inches towards the tip from the tsuba. But this is not a period sword, and according to my understanding, the sword style is also post-period.
The POB directly affects the way of using a sword (and/or vice versa, the fencing tradition affects the characteristics of the swords made, to be wielded effectively in that tradition)
But the most critical issue right now are the characteristics of the swords. After I get it done I can start practicing with it, and if my sword is accurately built, I should be able to study historical fencing accurately.
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Post by Please Delete on Aug 19, 2010 16:50:45 GMT -5
Since there is no single shape for a katana or tachi, the POB would change depending on the sword. I've held and used many swords; from light, shobu-zukuri style competition cutters to thick, yamato type blades with lots of niku. I find that each has their own characteristics, and I'm not sure why you would find the one you have to be particularly unsuited to period. I would go with what you have available, and what you are used to practicing with.
-Ii
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Post by tengumoon on Aug 19, 2010 21:47:45 GMT -5
I agree with Ii-dono (Hey tomodachi!)
Each sword is different and personal and changes depending on many variables
I am curious about the Darkwood katana - as far as I can tell (and Darkwood havent been very communicative) is that these are just a standard rapier blade that has a curve put in it to represent katana or sabre. Alchem blades do the same thing. I fear this really doesnt represent a katana blade well.
I am very interested in seeing a pic of a darkwood katana and getting feedback/review of it. Darkwood couldnt show me any pics and I am very wary of spending big $ sight unseen and without any reviews
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Post by oravainen on Aug 20, 2010 17:44:01 GMT -5
Scott from darkwood had lost his previous pictures of the katana blade, but told me that he would take some as soon he would make new ones. Well I'm the one ordering the new ones... He had also a CAD drawing somwhere, but he posted the measurements as follows: "About 34-38inches long, 1.25 in at the base and about .5" depression in the curve" Scott also said "I have typically made them very Katana like" about the blade. I'll see what he comes up with. To my surprise the blade thickness at the base was almost identical to my katana What will probably be most different from period designs is the tapering of the blade... but as it is also a bit of safety issue, I'm okay with not achieving 100% period look. I haven't heard of anyone else making "katana" sca-legal blades (whatever they actually look like) but I decided to shop at darkwood, because I have already two of their blades, and I'm pretty happy with the quality, and I'm ready to pay well for a durable, flexible blade. this post awakened my prejudice about the "period" point of balance on my sword: The "cutting katana" is an Edo concept. Sengoku swordsmanship is based on fighting in armor and those swords were used very much like an estoc.... yet in the same thread (http://tousando.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=arms&action=display&thread=3141&page=1) emerged the concept of a longer (than western) hilt would give greater control of the blade - and perhaps lessen the need for a 'western style' point of balance close to the gueard? this however depends on how the sword is used. A topic I'm less than adequately familiar with... But I hope to change that someday |
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Post by Please Delete on Aug 20, 2010 19:11:38 GMT -5
this post awakened my prejudice about the "period" point of balance on my sword: The "cutting katana" is an Edo concept. Sengoku swordsmanship is based on fighting in armor and those swords were used very much like an estoc.... yet in the same thread (http://tousando.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=arms&action=display&thread=3141&page=1) emerged the concept of a longer (than western) hilt would give greater control of the blade - and perhaps lessen the need for a 'western style' point of balance close to the gueard? this however depends on how the sword is used. A topic I'm less than adequately familiar with... But I hope to change that someday Starting from the Heian period, you have swords that are long and relatively thin. I haven't tested them, but I would assume the POB would be much closer to the hilt and tsuba. After the Mongol invasions and in the ensuing Nanbokucho period afterwards, you see thick swords. Some are just monsters. These seem to be all about the cutting--they are favored by people who cut large or multiple targets today (this style) as the greater mass helps get through thicker or stronger targets, but but they tend to be much heavier out towards the tip, so the POB shifts away from the grip. Yamato-style blades are pretty constant width, just about, out to the kissaki, which tends to mean the POB is further from your hands. Bizen-style, however, is often known for its tapering effects, which will move the POB closer to your hands. Some handles were definitely monsters, but many were not, and the nakago on an uchigatana often didn't go that far into the tsuka unless it was cut down from a larger blade. Many blades do seem to have been cut down over the years, which you can sometimes see evidence of in the nakago. So basically... it varies a lot, so you really need to come up with a specific time, place, and style of blade to start to consider something like this. My recommendation is to find a blade that fits you and your style. -Ii |
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Post by Kano Hiroyoshi on Aug 21, 2010 9:53:49 GMT -5
My katana has a point of balance about 5 and a half inches towards the tip from the tsuba. But this is not a period sword, and according to my understanding, the sword style is also post-period. The Edo government strictly regulated pretty much everything, and sword-smithing was no different. As Ii-dono said, period blades tended to vary widely in length, weight, and balance, while post-period blades were much more uniform. I echo the recommendation to just find a blade that works for you. If you're just starting out in C&T, then use your new sword for about six months and you'll either grow to love it or you'll get a feeling for what needs improvement. That will give you a much better idea on what to go for in the next sword you purchase. |
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Post by oravainen on Oct 27, 2010 8:24:25 GMT -5
I am curious about the Darkwood katana - as far as I can tell (and Darkwood havent been very communicative) is that these are just a standard rapier blade that has a curve put in it to represent katana or sabre. Alchem blades do the same thing. I fear this really doesnt represent a katana blade well. I am very interested in seeing a pic of a darkwood katana and getting feedback/review of it. Darkwood couldnt show me any pics and I am very wary of spending big $ sight unseen and without any reviews I'm quoting an email I sent to darkwood on 25. and the reply looks like thisOther specs that I didn't mention about the blade are a traditional style tang for orthodox mounting, and a steel habaki. |
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Post by oravainen on Dec 8, 2010 9:09:00 GMT -5
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Post by tengumoon on Dec 9, 2010 3:53:14 GMT -5
Oh yummy - Now I want one and a kokatana size and a longer one as well!
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