jon
New Member
Posts: 52 
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Post by jon on Oct 21, 2013 17:19:10 GMT -5
Hello, My name is Jon. I am looking for help on make a set of Samurai armour. I am using www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.html as a reference to make my armour. I am making a Okegawa style do (new version). Im mainly looking for help with proper calculations on lengths of things and verifications on the things I have already calculated. My skype is jon.higgs1 Height 6'1", A: Chest 32", B: Navel 30", C: Hip 30", D: Butt 35.5", E: nip to nip 8", F: shoulder blades 12", G: armpit to waist 14.5" (Unsure of that one), H: navel to throat 17" (unsure of that one again) (my printer weird and wont scale the pdfs properly when printing) |
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Mega Zenjirou Yoshi
New Member
The Scadian formerly known as Lord Drogo Bryce of Middlefordshire
Posts: 175
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Post by Mega Zenjirou Yoshi on Oct 21, 2013 23:55:29 GMT -5
Jon I think the standard pattern is going to be pretty close for you. I'm six foot, and a little thicker than you, and it worked for me ( though next time I may add about an inch to the width of lames, to account for my middle aged thickness)
If you can find a printer to print the patterns correctly, draw them out, add maybe 1/8th inch to the height of each lame. Cut those out of poster board, tape together, and post some pics here. The watagami you will most likely need to alter, but we can help with that, once we see photos of how the pattern fits.
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Lash
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perfection isnt an end result but a path to walk upon with your eyes closed.
Posts: 422
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Post by Lash on Oct 22, 2013 1:38:26 GMT -5
^ what he said lol but I would also add wear a cpl sweatshirts under it to simulate your under armor gear.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2013 7:00:10 GMT -5
(my printer weird and wont scale the pdfs properly when printing) I'm sorry if you've tried all this, but there are often some options in the Adobe PDF Reader that affect print scaling. Foremost, in the "Print" dialog box, select the "Size" button and make sure that under "Size Options" you have "Actual size" selected. It defaults to "Shrink oversized pages", and this often shrinks 8.5"x11.0" pages down to fit within the printing margins of your printer. This has bit me more times than I care to mention. |
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jon
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Posts: 52
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Post by jon on Oct 22, 2013 14:36:38 GMT -5
  (Taken from an old school cellphone) All of lames are 2" tall, 18" long (kabuki's) 8" (Tateage) 8.5" for back tateage. Entire do is 14.5" tall Ill be wearing a simple tight shirt under it (Its for Larp) Im having a hard time putting it on (tape is crumby) Does that sound right? |
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jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Post by jon on Nov 12, 2013 21:36:45 GMT -5
I cut out all my plastic, how do I punch the holes for Sugake Odoshi lacing. Do the angles of the hole placement change? Or are all of them 90o ?
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Post by roninpenguin on Nov 13, 2013 0:12:59 GMT -5
90 degrees works. I use a soldering iron for my holes in plastic but if that doesn't match your lace size that may not work.
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Mega Zenjirou Yoshi
New Member
The Scadian formerly known as Lord Drogo Bryce of Middlefordshire
Posts: 175
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Post by Mega Zenjirou Yoshi on Nov 14, 2013 7:56:44 GMT -5
I use a fine tip soldering iron to make a small divet where the holes should be and then punch them with a Roper and Whitney Jr hand punch.
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jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Post by jon on Nov 16, 2013 12:37:57 GMT -5
How do you guys line up the holes perfectly? I did test pieces in my metal shop class, the second piece was off by a mm and messed up the look of the crossing cords. Do you guys make a jig for this? If so do you guys have a picture?
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Post by magnus on Nov 16, 2013 13:29:20 GMT -5
Mine was a mess...I used steel and solid rivets, but I couldn't get the holes to line up at all. One trick I just learned though was to use a small nut and bolt in the first holes you do make, so you can essentially assemble the plates without permanently doing it. The advantage is that any other holes you drill won't move because of the nut and bolt.
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Post by roninpenguin on Nov 17, 2013 1:43:42 GMT -5
I just used a template and marked all of my holes out. If your lacing is thick enough the "Poof" should hide it if you are only off my a mm or so. What size holes are you using to what size of lace? In general it should be close to a 1/3 to 2/3 ratio of hole to lace (I tend to use 1/8" holes to 3/8" lace). If your holes are too big or your lacing too small that might show the errors more.
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jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Post by jon on Nov 17, 2013 11:21:12 GMT -5
 As you can see the botom piece is an X not a poof (there is a rivet under the lace, but it was a test and looked the same with sinew holding it there). The top one turned out perfect. Its paracord the paracord is 3/16ths of a inch. The holes are 1/8th. I used the smallest example of Sugake spacing. |
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Post by magnus on Nov 17, 2013 13:03:45 GMT -5
Looks pretty good to me...I'm sure you'll get really good at it to the point where it all looks perfect.
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Post by roninpenguin on Nov 17, 2013 17:50:22 GMT -5
My recommendation would be smaller holes, like I said I use 3/8" lace for 1/8" holes, it is a little tight but it really gets the Laces looking nice. Also using a nail or soldering iron to start your holes will make it easier to keep everything squared up when you use your drill later.
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jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Post by jon on Dec 18, 2013 21:08:17 GMT -5
So I made the fabric portion of my haidate, Im planning on making iyo plates for it.
The fabric portion is 11" W and 22" L. Does 1 3/8" by 3" for the iyo plates sound right?
So 4 tall 8 wide for a total of 32 on each panel.
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