Kataginu making

[Michimasa]

Can I use an Hitatare pattern to make a Kataginu ?
Is it the about the same garnment without sleeves ?
Should the Kataginu be worn with an obi (sash) over ?
I think I have seen it both ways...

Also, what should I be looking when shopping for a brocade for such a garnment ?

Thanks

Mik

[Masahide]

Mik said:

Can I use an Hitatare pattern to make a Kataginu ? Is it the about the same garnment without sleeves ?

A Kataginu is more like a Kosode without sleves or side seams (and with a different collar line), so basically, it is nothing like a Kosode.... ;-)

I found good comments/patterns at the following:
www.raito.com/clothing.htm
www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html (under men's garments)

Mik said:

Should the Kataginu be worn with an obi (sash) over ?

A Kataginu is worn tucked into the Hakama, and the obi is worn over the Hakama.

Mik said:

Also, what should I be looking when shopping for a brocade for such a garnment ?

You got me on that one....

Masahide

[Saionji Shonagon]

I can't comment on constructing men's clothes as I haven't had to make any. (If my yojimbo ever gets active in the SCA again, I should offer to make him some new clothes to get the practical experience.)

Most Asian "silk" brocades on the market are in fact silk rayon blends (with rayon being the prevalent fiber). They tend to be pricy. Thai Silks has a decent selection under $12/yard at their website. www.thaisilks.com/

Check out numbers 0012-404, 0012-316, 0012-396, 0012-384, 0012-408 for some nice repeating geometric patterns that would be appropriate. Be sure to click on the enlargements - the lime green dragonfly one is very period looking!

Warning - this stuff frays like a sonofabitch. You MUST finish your cut seams, either with binding tape or some sort of felling technique. Serging is not going to cut it.

"Damask" and "jacquard" are good descriptions to look for if you're thinking of upholstery fabrics. They tend to be medium to heavy weight fabrics and cotton/poly blends aren't uncommon. Might work for hakama, maybe? If you look at it and think, "Am I going to look like Aunt Ruth's Victorian sofa?" you probably shouldn't make clothes out of it.

Makiwara

[AJBryant]

Can I use an Hitatare pattern to make a Kataginu ?
Is it the about the same garnment without sleeves ?

That's exactly what it is. Remove the sleeves from a hitatare and you have a kataginu. That is, in fact, where the thing came from -- or so it is believed.

Tony