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Post by Kitadatedenka on Jun 2, 2005 8:51:28 GMT -5
But I always wonder if 'traditional' Japanese stuff is traditional enough to fit into my period of study. I don't see a whole lot of different stitches used in period garments. Just outlining, their weird satin-type stitch, and couching.
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Post by Michimasa on Jun 2, 2005 13:22:49 GMT -5
Makiwara, Kitadatedenka , you can see my wasted paint here :-) membres.lycos.fr/dreuxderouen/kamon/usami4_stencil.jpgI got and read your article on block printing, and most likely I used too much paint.... and maybe I went too fast also The fist stencil I made was cut in a standart sheet of paper (the one used in the picture above) and it was 6 inches square. I tried the same with 3 inches square, but it seen much too small to get all details of the flower cut in without broking the stencil. So this morning I took a look at the good old "Seven Samurai" movie. I don't know if it is a good reference but most of them wore something that look like a sleeveless hitatare that is open half way in the back (don't know the name of this garnment) and most had a large kamon in the back and one on each side at top front. These kamon look like 4 to 5 inches. I think that this is the look I will go for, althought it might be late period I should also had took pic of my brush so you could advise which is better for stencil, but I forgot.... any detail pic on the WEB that show the proper brush to use ? Michimasa
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AJBryant
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Post by AJBryant on Jun 2, 2005 14:21:21 GMT -5
Those are sleeveless dobuku in Seven Samurai.
Effingham
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Post by Michimasa on Jun 2, 2005 14:42:56 GMT -5
Thank you Mr. Bryan, and are those kamon placement and size (in seven samurai) accurate for a late period samurai ?
Michimasa
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 2, 2005 18:09:43 GMT -5
Slowly, Michimasa-dono! Slowly and carefully. One does not rush. ;-> Go here for a quick tutorial on stencil technique and a photo of what a stencil brush looks like: painting.about.com/library/blpaint/blstencilclass2.htmYou also would benefit from using a sturdier material to cut your stencil from. As you found out, paper is too flimsy. Card stock (such as an old file folder), will work, but you must be careful about letting it dry between uses so it doesn't start to buckle at the edges. It's also important to gently wipe the edges of both sides with a paper towel between uses, in case you've leaked any paint around the stencil edges. Mylar or acetate can be re-used immediately, and it's well worth it, especially if you think you're going to use the stencil a lot. M.
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 2, 2005 18:10:30 GMT -5
It's been a long time since I've seen "Seven Samurai," but I'm pretty sure it's post-period.
M.
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Post by Kitadatedenka on Jun 3, 2005 10:00:41 GMT -5
It also helps to pad the fabric a bit on the underside, because you can get the stencil donw onto the fabric better. That's how silk-screen equipment works. As I do my stencilling on a table, I pad with a couple of old grocery bags, which I'd need underneath anyway.
It looks like your ink leaked under the edges of the stencil. Possibly too much ink, possibly flimsy stencil. Possibly user error.
I still love Mask-Ease for Stencils. I made one with my mon a couple years ago, and it's still going strong.
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Post by Michimasa on Jun 3, 2005 13:28:29 GMT -5
Bad tools, bad technics.... bad results :-) Thanks for the infos. I will find a stencil brush and make a stencil out of acetate and will give and other (slow) try :-)
But it will have to wait until next week... it's my dauther birthday this week end....
Thanks for the good advice, I'll let you know how it turn out!
Michimasa
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Post by Kitadatedenka on Jun 3, 2005 16:33:16 GMT -5
Geez, you weren't using a stencil brush? No wonder you leaked under... ;D
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 3, 2005 17:42:32 GMT -5
Good luck. I think that with a little practice and a light touch on the paint, you'll get decent results.
M.
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Post by Please Delete on Jun 6, 2005 8:00:23 GMT -5
Pretty much. When that film was made, there was still very much a tradition of "stylized form" in Japanese TV and film (much as any cowboy movie made in the 50s had the whole "black hat/white hat" and fringe thing going). You can get a much more accurate image of the clothing of the period by watching Ran or Kagemusha.
It's set very specifically in -- I think --1558. I can't recall the actual year, but there's a scene where Mifune claims to be a character on a stolen samurai family register -- and they ask if he's thirteen. Adding 13 years to the date on the register provides the film's date.
Effingham
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Post by Please Delete on Jun 6, 2005 8:01:22 GMT -5
Well, dang. This is me, using Ii-dono's computer....
Effingham
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 6, 2005 8:41:10 GMT -5
There's some great stuff in Kagemusha. In an early scene there are some retainers in big dyed stripes that would be really easy to do.....
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Post by Michimasa on Jun 6, 2005 13:21:17 GMT -5
Ok, well I have Ran but not Kagemusha Guess I should go and look for it, maybe on ebay Here are a few more try on stencil. I found at Wall Mart the stencil brush as you had shown me, some other brush that are some felt tip or something that I haven't tried yet and a plastic material sold to make stencil.... so I cut a new stencil at 3 inches square, and got to it: Here, still too much paint and too quick membres.lycos.fr/dreuxderouen/kamon/st2.JPGGetting better: membres.lycos.fr/dreuxderouen/kamon/st3.JPGNow, maybe a second layer would have done great. Yet I'm getting to it, it is rather long to do, but I like the result best. I guess I could even correct some details with a standart brush after it dried.... membres.lycos.fr/dreuxderouen/kamon/st4.JPGI appreciate your help, all of you, and as usual your patience with me
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 6, 2005 17:59:48 GMT -5
These look much better, Michimasa-dono, especially given the scale you've decided to work in! 3"x3" isn't very big and you've got very fine lines to deal with.
Keep practicing. Be stingy with your paint and, keeping your brush vertical to the surface you're paiting, go dot dot dot with it, working inward from the stencil edges inward. That'll help you keep your edges crisp - it's easier to fill in the middle with a brush than to make corrections with a brush on the edges. Though you can if you have to. A 3"x3" design of the type you're trying is pretty small, so you need to be very careful. you can always fill in the middles with brushed on paint if they need it.
What kind of fabric are you painting on? Does it resist the paint or try to sponge it up?
M.
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