Silk Sewing

[chiaki]

I have never sewn anything with silk, but would like to start using the fabric. I have a very strong feeling that it's much different than sewing with cotton or linens. I am wondering if anyone could offer any tips/techniques. I will most likely be doing all hand sewing.

Thanks!

[Saionji Shonagon]

Chiaki-dono, I pretty much do all my sewing by hand these days. It depends on what sort of silk you're going to be working with. Some of my European things are made of silk suiting that behaves pretty much like linen does in terms of weight, looseness of the weave, etc.

Habotai and dupioni have a much tighter weave and it's not uncommon for me to go through an entire packet of sharps on a single garment because the needles dull from having to get through the silk. When you stab the needle through the silk and it goes "Poik!" after a bit of initial resistance, it's time to change to a fresh needle. On the other hand, because the fabric is so fine, you can get really skinny hem edges - if you want them.

One trick I've used with dupioni is to save the bits of thread that work loose from the cut ends and sew with them. You have a perfect color match for any place you're going to have exposed stitching and it's strong enough for seams and hems. Just be prepared that because the thread wasn't twisted like sewing threads are that it will sometimes kink, slub up after being pulled through the fabric several times and finally decide to snag or break on you. Snip, knot the end off and move on.

If I can answer anything else, let me know.

Back to the orange dupioni....

Saionji