Hitatare questions

[Saionji Shonagon]

OK, folks, it's happening - I'm attempting guy clothes.

What do people like to use for cordage on their hitatare? I'm guessing a flat cord for sleeve and hem ties and round for the lapel cords?

Holes or "belt loops" sewn to the sleeves?

Saionji

[Kitadatetenno]

Well for my last hitatare (made by Koha at the last minute so as to not be out-pimped by the Prince of Calontir), it was holes and flat lace, no lapel cord. Fabric was black with gold semi-key pattern very reminiscent of my mon. It would have been much more comfotable if it hadn't been a hundred or so in the shade. Also wore tate eboshi under the crown.

[Saionji Shonagon]

Well for my last hitatare (made by Koha at the last minute so as to not be out-pimped by the Prince of Calontir), it was holes and flat lace, no lapel cord.

May one humbly ask how the holes are finished?

This person spent part of yesterday handsewing false seams into the back and sleeve panels of the hitatare so they'd be in all the right places. This should not be construed as an admission that she can tell which city a dime has been minted in simply by sitting on it.

S.

[AJBryant]

From my website:

The hitatare were made more “impressive” with larger sleeves and became the common daywear of the buke in the Kamakura period; it was also about this time that the wrist cord was added (end of Heian/early Kamakura periods). Unlike suikan and kariginu (where it went through the entire fabric and lining, if any), the wrist cord went through a series of loops sewn to the surface of the fabric, or through the tunnel of the wrist seam itself.

Now, I have in fact seen some later hitatare where the cord goes through the sleeve fabric -- this may be an Edo thing, I don't know. But the fellows I read (Suzuki, Sato, Kawabata, et al.) indicate the STANDARD was through "belt loops."

Effingham

[Saionji Shonagon]

But the fellows I read (Suzuki, Sato, Kawabata, et al.) indicate the STANDARD was through "belt loops."

Thanks, Sensei. I was working off the yoroi hitatare pattern over on the armor miscellany and completely forgot to go back and look. Dammit, I oughta know better!

On the other hand, it'll be just the thing to wear when the Bay socks in.

S.

[AJBryant]

You may do a hitatare, but it'll be a cold day in jigoku before I don a mo.

Effingham

[Saionji Shonagon]

You may do a hitatare, but it'll be a cold day in jigoku before I don a mo.

Now that would just be silly. ;D I am reminded of the passage in Lady Nijo's diary where the ex-Emperor and his friends decide it would be cool to make all the ladies dress as boys to play kemari. The ladies are all initially appalled by the idea......

S.