Karaginu

[Noriko]

Quick question: I had some left over fabric so I'm mocking up a karaginu. I'm wondering though, if the karaginu, like the other robes, has okumi. From the pictures, it doesn't look it, but then again, it's kinda hard to tell.
Thanks in advance (:

Also, while I have everyone's ear: would a low ranking noblewoman have had stenciled ko-uchigi? Or were patterened ko-uchigi only for very high ranking woman (i.e. the Empress and friends). I like the one I made but...

[Saionji Shonagon]

I'm wondering though, if the karaginu, like the other robes, has okumi. From the pictures, it doesn't look it, but then again, it's kinda hard to tell.

No okumi. It's somwhat similar to a man's hitatare - look at Effingham's construction pattern at www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/hitatare.PDF?52,12

The collar is attached directly to the body panels. Your karaginu's dimensions should be keyed to ths sleeve and panel sizes of the rest of your robes.

Also, while I have everyone's ear: would a low ranking noblewoman have had stenciled ko-uchigi?

You mean figured weaves that we're faking with stencils, right? I'm only senior seventh rank myself and dammit, I would wear brocade if I had to mortgage my own mother to do it. ;D In real life, however, I'm settling for Neopaque white on a diamond silk jacquard.

You might NOT have had figured-weave silks for the layers under that. But you do have to avoid "forbidden colors" such as kurenai (red) and murasaki (purple). (And yet, which colors do they usually depict karaginu in?)

The twelfth century source we have on what colors to wear was a cheat sheet for an Empress. She could wear those colors. We have to remember that we would not unless specifically permitted.

S.

[Noriko]

Ah thanks!
I finished sewing my karaginu, though perhaps I should have waited in order to add stencils. I'm probably also going to make a mo as well. There's a fashion show at Birka this year and I've set my sights on entering, even though I'll be dressing a bit above my station but I want to show off how cool Japanese garb is!

edit: actually, I found a picture of a karaginu in pink (and one in murasaki, *sigh*). It's here: www.geocities.com/nobukaze23/obi2.htm though you're going to have to scroll down a bit.

[Saionji Shonagon]

Pictures, Noriko-hime! We want pictures!

Saionji

[Saionji Shonagon]

edit: actually, I found a picture of a karaginu in pink (and one in murasaki, *sigh*). It's here: www.geocities.com/nobukaze23/obi2.htm though you're going to have to scroll down a bit.

Better pic of the pink one:


S.