Mobakama

[Ki no Kotori]

I was thinking of making some around-the-camp garb, something practical to wear for when I'm helping out at an event and don't want to mess up the pretty outfit(s). (Yes, yes, I know, the blue moon shines on the day that I actually show up to an event, but I am an optimist, and hope springs eternal. Besides, we're going to be visiting my folks soon, which means a long car ride each way, so I need a sewing project to keep me busy. )

Anyway, I was thinking that this outfit kosode and mobakama, would be perfect. It looks practical and modest enough (and more importantly, easy to sew).

A couple of questions:

a) The mobakama looks to my untutored eye just like a simple pleated skirt. Any ideas how the waistband works and how it is tied on?

b) I have some pink linen/mix fabric that I think will work very well for this. There is some that is plain, and some that is dyed in an interesting fading effect (it's a deeper pink then fades into a lighter pink). Should I do the kosode in the interesting fabric and the mobakama in the plain, or vice-versa? In the example, they have two different patterns mixed.

Ki no Torame

Springtime, and a young woman's fancy turns to...faaaabric!!

[Saionji Shonagon]

a) The mobakama looks to my untutored eye just like a simple pleated skirt. Any ideas how the waistband works and how it is tied on?

Don't know for sure, as I never made one of these, but it looks to me like plain old box pleats to a waistband. Every wrap skirt I've ever owned has to have some allowance for overlap, so factor that in. As I look at the picture, it appears that the tie is done like that on nagabakama - in a loose half bow at one side.

b) I have some pink linen/mix fabric that I think will work very well for this. There is some that is plain, and some that is dyed in an interesting fading effect (it's a deeper pink then fades into a lighter pink). Should I do the kosode in the interesting fabric and the mobakama in the plain, or vice-versa? In the example, they have two different patterns mixed.[/quote]

The KCM example shows a light to dark fade on the mobakama, which sounds similar to what you're describing. You want the interesting bit to show, either way.

S.

[solveig]

Noble Cousin!

Greetings from Solveig! The mobakama is indeed a fairly simple garment. There are patterns for it in the Nuikata book. There are a few details to keep in mind when making one of the things. Remember that it is held together by a sash. Also, it is a side closure just like a regular hakama. As I recall, some varities of the mobakami are open on only one side.

Incidentally, if you are intent on working around camp, then you should make yourself an apron as well. If you want to see one in a movie instead of in real documentation, take a look at Hidden Fortress.

[Nagamochi]

In which case, couldn't one just skip the mobakama and stick with a kosode and apron, using the apron to hold it all together? I've seen it done before, but I'll admit that I'm citing some fairly modern examples to the best of my knowledge. Though I could swear I've seen the KCM displaying such for a peasant woman.

[Ki no Kotori]

I've never seen an example of wearing a mobakama WITH an apron. Either/or, but not both.

The reason I wanted to do the mobakama rather than a yumaki (light wrapping skirt ie apron) or shibiradatsu-mono (wrapping skirt, seems to look shorter than the mobakama with less pleats?), is a) because of the amount and type of material I have and b) at my weight, I think it would look better to have the longer skirt.

No doubt I could make a yumaki as well and alternate them out. But one thing at a time! I do have some plain natural-color linen that might do very well for that.

Thanks, everyone, for your help.

Ki no Torame

[solveig]

Noble Cousin!

Greetings from Solveig!

kinotorahime said:

I've never seen an example of wearing a mobakama WITH an apron.

I was not suggesting that you wear both together. However, you were writing about doing manual labour at camp. The mo is strictly speaking a formal garment worn by adult women. The mobakama appears to be an adaptation for wear during travel and similar situations. Aprons are worn while performing labour.

The reason I wanted to do the mobakama rather than a yumaki (light wrapping skirt ie apron) or shibiradatsu-mono (wrapping skirt, seems to look shorter than the mobakama with less pleats?), is a) because of the amount and type of material I have and b) at my weight, I think it would look better to have the longer skirt.

The real problem with actual wrap skirts as they are an undergarment worn under the nagajuban. I am not familiar with any mo which are actually wrap skirts. I certainly do not recall seeing any in the Nuikata book.

Your Humble Servant
Solveig Throndardottir
Amateur Scholar

[Ki no Kotori]

solveig said:

The real problem with actual wrap skirts as they are an undergarment worn under the nagajuban. I am not familiar with any mo which are actually wrap skirts. I certainly do not recall seeing any in the Nuikata book.

I posted a link from the Kyoto Costume museum as to the skirt in question, one that I've seen worn several times in taiga dramas such as last year's Yoshitsune (which is where I got the idea). I've seen the aprons as well, but I like the longer skirts better.

It might be helpful if the book in question had a title and maybe an ISBN number so that I could maybe find it and look it up to see for myself. Until such a time, I have no idea what you're talking about.

It feels like you're picking on me for some reason. Please stop. I'm trying my best with what resources are available to me.

--Ki no Torame

[Saionji Shonagon]

Ki-hime, I believe the fragment of book title that Solveig-hime mentioned is for this:

Jidai Ishô no Nuikata is copyright 1984 Kurihara Hiro and Kawamura Machiko, published by Genryu-sha Joint Stock Co., Tokyo, Japan. ISBN4-7739-8405.

Ii-dono has done some work translating this source and has webbed it at
modzer0.cs.uaf.edu/~logan/JapaneseHistory/index.php?var=clothes/jidai_ishou


I'm looking at the back view again at
www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/9.htm
I can't tell for sure, but it does look like it ends on the right side and she has it tied in a half bow, the way one would tie nagabakama.

S.

[Ki no Kotori]

Thank you, Saionji-hime. I shall check with my library and see if I can find it on inter-library loan.

The ties do look similar--I may just use that as a model.

Ki no Torame

[Saionji Shonagon]

The mo is strictly speaking a formal garment worn by adult women. The mobakama appears to be an adaptation for wear during travel and similar situations. Aprons are worn while performing labour.

According to the English language explanation at KCM
www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/9.htm

'Originally, the people of low status wore "kosode" and " mo-bakama" .

The "mo-bakama" begun to be worn by high-ranked court ladies as "kosode," kimono with short sleeves, was to be worn as underwear in the first place, then middle-clothes, and then outergarment when it was set to the Kamakura era.'

Mo and mobakama aren't the same thing, obviously. And if low-status people were wearing them before mobakama were adopted by the upper class, ruling them out as some sort of working clothes seems somewhat short sighted.

Two sen from behind the kicho,
S.

[chiaki]

I made a mobakama and I love it very much. It's perfect for camping events. Imagine being a lady and trying to get out of your hakama in the port-a-jon without letting all your ties fall on the questionably damp floor. Hello mobakama!

I didn't have a pattern and found it a bit difficult to find much info on the item. I just sort of had to eyeball pictures. I made the sash on one end a bit longer so it would wrap nicely and tie at the side. I made the pleated skirt bit and then a really long sash, sewing the skirt in between the two sides of the sash for a nice seam. It took me just a day, by hand. If you have a machine, it's a wicked quick project. Here is another example.

[Nagamochi]

Pardon this silly boi's curiousity, but all this means to me is that a mobakama is just hakama without the seperated legs. Is that right? The picture even seems to have the knife pleats of hakama.
In which case, hot damn, I already own a pair in navy blue!

[Marten van Rosenveldt]

chiaki said:

Imagine being a lady and trying to get out of your hakama in the port-a-jon without letting all your ties fall on the questionably damp floor. Hello mobakama!

That reminds me of what I learned in physick school - Anatomy is Destiny!

[solveig]

Noble Cousins!

Even if mobakama did, as claimed, originate in the lower classes, this does not mean that they were necessarily work clothes. It is possible and somewhat likely that they were a simplification of the mo. Iconographic evidence and traditional practice does a much better job of supporting the use of aprons while performing labour.

As for the English version on the Costume Museum web site. Mobakama are definitely NOT wrap skirts. Further, I take issue with the specific way in which they are dressing the manequin. Most Japanese clothing is tied in front NOT the side. Further, the very long himo do allow being tied in the front.

While it is true that mobakama commonly have himo attached on one side of the garment, you will note that one himo is distinctly longer than the other himo. This difference in length does not support the notion of simply tying them in place. One or both of them needs to be wrapped around the body. Hakama with only two himo such as shown on page 118 of the nuikata book typically have one himo significantly longer than the other.

In comparison, both mo and hakama typically have four himo which are tied in front and possibly in back.

[AJBryant]

Look more closely at those women's Heian fashions. Women's hakama were tied at the side.


Effingham