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Post by Noriko on Sept 23, 2005 23:29:50 GMT -5
By some quirk of nature, either cutting my robes to narrow or some other weird occurance, I was able to get two robes out of six yards of fabric. So I had enough left over, after making an uchigi to make a ko-uchigi. Unfortunately, this means I need to paint the thing. I'm not quite sure what type of design would be period. I found this great site for kamon[1] and some of the designs I'm quite partial to. I really like plum blossoms; and I was wondering if that would be a period design, provided the blossom was in a roundish shape, not branching vines. I'm posting the link to the kamon site, and to the section with the plum blossoms. I'm thinking of doing the first flower in the set. Would it be too simple and make me look like I'm wearing draperies? Should I find a more complex, perhaps non-floral design? Thanks, er, domo arigato. a. Kamon site: www.otomiya.com/kamon/index.htm (the blue bar at the top contains the links to the various kamon categories.) b. Plum blossoms: www.otomiya.com/kamon/plant/ume.htm[1]all in Japanese, though theres not much writing. Basically, all you need is an online translator, though you could just click on random things and then you only need to know hiragana.
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Sept 24, 2005 1:01:27 GMT -5
Period for when? Heian? Later than that? Have you seen the textile gallery at the Kyoto Costume Museum? It may give you some ideas: www.iz2.or.jp/english/I did a design with two ginko leaves on mine. I'm partial to the first one in the tenth row, the second one in the eleventh row, and the center one in row fifteen. Saionji
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Post by Noriko on Sept 24, 2005 1:20:41 GMT -5
Period for when? Heian? Later than that? Yup, Heian. I'll take a look at the textile gallery though. I think I've browsed it once before but it's quite a large collection and I don't think I made it through the whole lot. Hmn, center one, row fifteen. That one is nice. Thing is, I'm worried that if I do make a stencil out of a delicate design, it'll fall apart in two seconds flat. Unless I see what leftovers are about in the art building; there might be something around to make a stamp out of...
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Sept 24, 2005 1:24:40 GMT -5
Make it out of mylar or acetate, not card stock. It'll hold up.
S.
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Post by Date Saburou Yukiie on Sept 24, 2005 11:36:05 GMT -5
I have found you can get this thin, frosted plastic sheeting at craft stores that is meant for stencils - I took a chance and ran a sheet through my inkjet, and it worked like a charm...so I cot a perfect version of the stencil I wanted printed right on the plastic...Then went in with a sharp new x-acto blade and cut out the stencil. Works great! Date
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Sept 24, 2005 12:15:56 GMT -5
Noriko, you might want to have a look here too: www.yusoku.com/Sigh. I need to win the lotto.
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madyaas
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Post by madyaas on Sept 24, 2005 22:25:29 GMT -5
The nice thing about the plastic sheeting is it comes in the size of a piece of regular paper, big enough for most stencils you'll need (unless you're doing a very large mon). It also has a rough side, and a smooth side.The rough side is good for when you're doing preliminary pencil sketching since it grabs the graphite a bit.
Also, something useful is to get spray adhesive meant for sticking stencils to walls. If you have a design with thin areas, it helps it to stay down and prevent leaking underneath. The adhesive didn't seem to come off onto the cotton when I used it on my kimono, and since silk is smoother, I don't think there should be a problem.
That same adhesive was also useful when I made the mon for my kimono. It was pretty useful since I had a thick seam down the back, and allowed me to mold the posterboard over the cloth to get it to grab on. I did have some leakage underneath, but it was pretty minor and I was able to cover most of it up by extending the rest of the areas out a bit.
Posterboard is great for one - 2 time use stencils. I used it for the mon, as I said, and also for the outline of the branches and trunk of the pine.
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Sept 24, 2005 22:35:38 GMT -5
I usually don't bother taping down a stencil, I've gotten pretty good at laying them down and holding them steady. However that blue painters' masking tape works very nicely as well.
BTW, Noriko, I've bookmarked the kamon site you posted - it's an excellent design resource! If your browser shows the URL at the bottom of the page as mine does when you mouse over the captions, the URL is in romanji instead of hiragana. So if you know that "tsuru" is a crane, you can figure out what designs are going to come up on that link.
S.
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Post by Noriko on Sept 24, 2005 23:00:56 GMT -5
Glad you like the site. (: The more I think about it, the more I might want to go with a simple diamond shape (http://www.otomiya.com/kamon/kika/hishi.htm, ninth row, first shape). The website says it was in use in Asuka and Heian, though as a family crest (gotta love online computerized translators). It seems that from watching some of the slide show at the Japanese Costume Museum, that really ornate roundels seemed to be very popular, but they're very complicated and not sure how to get a stencil out of one- in addition to not really getting a picture good enough to really get a good look. (though they kinda look like this one: www.otomiya.com/kamon/kika/wa_etc.htm third row, first shape.) Well, I'll see what I can liberate from the art building, lol, though if I pass by an art store tomorrow, I'll make my friends stop. Heh, they'll love that...
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Sept 24, 2005 23:13:01 GMT -5
I found one at that site, highlighted it, pasted it into MSWord, blew the image up to about 5" diameter, stuck a sheet of acetate in the printer and bingo! Just have to cut it out.
S.
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madyaas
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Post by madyaas on Sept 25, 2005 8:24:20 GMT -5
I usually don't bother taping down a stencil, I've gotten pretty good at laying them down and holding them steady. However that blue painters' masking tape works very nicely as well. Well, the problem is, often a stencil will shift, or it will move or *something* will happen while i'm stenciling that causes the pattern to get all kinds of messed up. The Spray adhesive works well to make sure it's stuck to the cloth. If you can hold it steady without anything, more power to you, but for people like me, such a thing comes in real handy.
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Post by Noriko on Sept 26, 2005 22:54:17 GMT -5
Well, my kind mother is sending my some art suplies so that I can paint my robe, including the blank stencil material! Turns out when I called, she was passing by the art store. What luck! Ah, I do love my mother. Anyway, I was wondering what size one would recommend for the roundel design. Makiwara/Saionji mentioned five by five inches but I did some test prints on paper and three by three looks decent. Unless big and bold was how the robes were done, and big five inch roundels would be the way to go... Thank you all for your help. BTW, which one does everyone like best? Kikyo (bellflower)- www.geocities.com/silentrat00/design.jpgUme (plum blossom)- www.geocities.com/silentrat00/design2.jpg
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Sept 27, 2005 0:03:38 GMT -5
Did you see the photo of the gagaku musicians I posted under the thread on "Instruments?" They're in Heian costume and their roundels are at the larger end. Some of the stuff at the Kyoto Costume Museum site is a bit smaller. I'd say no smaller than 3" in diameter, but you can go as big as 5" if you want.
Saionji
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AJBryant
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Post by AJBryant on Sept 27, 2005 1:26:50 GMT -5
Remember -- the Japanese were sticklers for detail.
There are specific medallion patterns and fabric styles that are deemed ONLY appropriate for kariginu of for nôshi/hôeki no hô, etc. And the size and placement of the medallions differs depending on the fabric and its purpose.
Effingham
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Sept 27, 2005 8:20:09 GMT -5
Not going to spoonfeed us a clue, either, are you?
In other words, time to go back and look at pictures. ;->
S.
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