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Post by Please Delete on Jun 6, 2012 17:39:02 GMT -5
Here's my process: - Put on outermost kosode.
- Secure with obi.
- Put hitatare over shoulders and arms into sleeves.
- Step into hakama.
- Adjust front hitatare panels the way I want.
- Pull up front of hakama, tie in back below obi knot.
- Adjust back of hitatare the way I want.
- Pull up back of hakama, tie in front.
This way, the hitatare is only held by the hakama. This may be wrong, but it's what I've been doing. I'll try the other way to see if it's any more stable the next time I wear mine. So what I found was that I needed to have the obi over the hitatare or kataginu in order to wear a katana properly, which goes through the obi as well as the koshi-himo. I have changed what I do, though. - Put on outermost kosode.
- Put hitatare over shoulders and arms into sleeves.
- Secure with obi.
- Adjust front hitatare panels the way I want.
- Step into hakama.
- Pull up back of hakama, tie in front, but high
- Pull up front of hakama, wrap around at about the koshihimo height, come back in front, underneath the front panel, and tie it underneath the obi knot, underneath the back panel
- Untie the rear koshihimo and tie it in front, but low
- Adjust back of hitatare the way I want
The reason I do it that way was that I found that it held the back of the hakama up better--this isn't a problem with modern hakama and the koshiita, but I found it was a problem with period hakama. That may be a consequence of not having enough room in the back panel (some poorly made hakama), but I got it from some schools of budo that actually tie their hakama this way. Tieing the front first is nice if you want to have easy access, though. -Ii |
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 6, 2012 17:51:07 GMT -5
My trivia brain has been nagging me all afternoon as to what that interlocked-circle motif is called and now I remember! It's shippou and it's not only period, it's OLD. There's an example in one of my textile books that dates back to around the 8th century.
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Post by steamboat28 on Jun 7, 2012 6:25:51 GMT -5
Ii-dono, I was curious about the wearing of weapons, as I'd heard it said both ways. I've read that some people claim the daisho is thrust through the hakama ties, and some that claim that the wakizashi goes through one pass of the obi, and the katana another. All on forums, mind you; I've still not extended my study far enough to include more academic sources. So...that's a point I've been super confused about. If the obi goes on the outside, binding the hitatare and holding the swords, does that mean I tuck the hem of the kosode into the himo used to close it? Saionji-hime - Thank you! I hate it when a thing has a proper name and I don't know what it is, drives me bananas. I've always thought this pattern was really pretty, but I had no idea it was so old! Apparently, I accidentally pick fabric like a champ. lol Now, if I can ever get my *other* mad-crafter project off the ground, I could replicate it... mwahahaha >  |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 7, 2012 7:41:28 GMT -5
My trivia brain has been nagging me all afternoon as to what that interlocked-circle motif is called and now I remember! It's shippou and it's not only period, it's OLD. There's an example in one of my textile books that dates back to around the 8th century. Doing a search for "shippou", I found this site - www.japanvector.com/ which seems to be a clip art site with some great repeating background patterns and images of traditional Japanese things. The whole site seem to have just come online this past January and I may need to download the entire thing in case it disappears. Normal caveats about downloading files from random web sites on the Internet apply, but SQUEEEE! |
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Post by steamboat28 on Jun 7, 2012 8:01:00 GMT -5
Ishiyama-dono; if your avatar is any indication, might you be the individual responsible for the kumihimo site I spent a day poring over?
(In related news, I may have a problem of the craft-addiction sort. When Saionji-hime said "If you don't do kumihimo..." my immediate response was "Well, I don't yet...)
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Post by steamboat28 on Jun 7, 2012 11:18:41 GMT -5
Forgive my double-postingness, but I just used my (stupidly rusty) origami skills to mock up paper versions of these patterns, and I think I've figured out all the tricky bits except the hakama pleats (which will probably have to wait for me to put it into fabric-space; that pattern lacks most of the information my learning style needs to finish them without actually seeing it done), and the width of the opening in the front of the hitatare. Is it half a panel taken from the middle? does it vary? etc. etc.
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 7, 2012 11:27:52 GMT -5
....and the width of the opening in the front of the hitatare. Is it half a panel taken from the middle? does it vary? etc. etc. shows what measurements you need to calculate the body dimensions for a hitatare, including the center opening, scaled for your body. I should think 8-10 inches out of the center is probably ample. It needs to be wide enough to sit properly around the back of the neck, but if you cut too much out, you won't have enough coverage in front. (Sleeves are slightly different as this is a yoroi hitatare, but the pieces all go together the same way. A more formal hitatare will have full rectangular sleeves.) |
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Post by Ishida Kentarou Mitsumasa on Jun 7, 2012 12:11:06 GMT -5
I have a super skinny neck, so I only end up cutting four inches off of the middle side of each center panel. Your mileage may vary.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 7, 2012 14:36:00 GMT -5
Ishiyama-dono; if your avatar is any indication, might you be the individual responsible for the kumihimo site I spent a day poring over? Yes, that's probably mine. Sorry about the slow load time. To be fair, I do do kumihimo, and almost all of the lacing on my garb is store-bought braid anyway. For instance, the two feet of lacing for the neck closure on my kariginu is hand made, but the 18 feet for the sleeves is not. The 14 feet of lacing for my suikan sleeves is hand made, but I already had the braid done before I needed it. |
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Post by steamboat28 on Jun 8, 2012 5:37:56 GMT -5
One of my favorite tabletop RPG sourcebooks says "If an Elf wants to build a house, he first studies Architecture, then Logging, then Woodworking, then Nail-Smithing." (paraphrased, of course) That's a pretty apt description of how I handle most crafting projects; whether or not I actually do everything myself every time, I want to know how to just in case i want to.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2012 9:24:27 GMT -5
That's a pretty apt description of how I handle most crafting projects; whether or not I actually do everything myself every time, I want to know how to just in case i want to. "If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe." -- Carl Sagan, Cosmos |
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 8, 2012 11:35:39 GMT -5
"Skill level: 1. Ambition level: 10." --Saionji no Hana
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Post by Ishikawa Yoshimasa on Jun 9, 2012 19:35:09 GMT -5
Saionji-hime, you certainly have a higher skill level than you admit to. I have stolen your pictures... I mean looked at the pictures for my inspiration files far too many times for your skill level to be a 1.
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jun 9, 2012 20:52:26 GMT -5
Thank you, but nobody springs fully formed from the head of Zeus 'cept Athena. I was referring to my M.O. when I'm attempting something brand new.
(Like the other night when the local rapier marshal managed to con me into picking up a rapier. There was a great deal of lead-footed thinking too hard and having no clue what to do with this big long poky thing in my hand. I'm going to have to learn how to watch a fight a whole new way if I stick with it....)
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