Extant Nagabakama?

[Tsuneko]

Greetings.

i am looking for extant examples of Heian or Kamakura period nagabakama, or failing that some solid documentation of construction techniques -- number of panels, arrangement of pleats, etc. Examples of similar men's garments would also be helpful. Any suggestions an where to look?

Gratefully, T.

[Saionji Shonagon]

We wish! fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakewomenshakama.htm will result in a weareable pair of nagabakama.

I will try to remember to pull out my copy of Jidai Isshou Nuikata tonight and have a look at their reconstruction.

[Please Delete]

The pattern there is pretty good. The main differences between these and regular hakama that I can think of off the top of my head:

1) The pleats don't need to stay. In fact, it seems that they shouldn't--they just help gather into the waistband and that's about it.
2) There is only one koshi-himo (waistband), which is attached like a "U" (rather than two koshi-himo, one at the front and one at the back), and one side is longer than the other.
3) The width of the koshi-himo is actually about twice normal, though it is halved around the waist itself.

If Saionji Shonagon doesn't find JIN I'll see what I can find.

-Ii

[Saionji Shonagon]

Sorry, got embroiled in other rhings when I got home. All measurements in JIN are in centimeters.
As Ii-dono mentioned, there is a single waistband.

Each leg is comprised of two panels 165cm x 42.4cm and one panel 142 cm x 42.4 cm. The shorter panels will be to the inside of the leg and form a crotch seam.

The waist tie is 19 cm wide x 236 cm long. It is folded in half (9.5 cm) with the fronts and backs pleated into it. (When worn, it's very wide and will come up under your bust.) Outermost pleats are 7.5 cm, the rest are 5cm.

Their reconstruction also shows white decorative stitching on the waist tie around the tops of the pleats and on the ends of the ties. web1.nazca.co.jp/hp/heian/nagahakama.html shows what it looks like.

[Tsuneko]

Thank you both so much: that is very helpful. Now to get cutting!

Cheers,
T.

[Please Delete]

FYI, the decorative stitching is, I believe, a cord similar to what is seen on other hakama. It should help to reinforce the stitching, particularly at the waist, and prevent it from tearing out.

Oh, and a secret I learned about hakama: for the area just above the seam they sometimes use a stiffener--buckram might work. Traditionally you will see layers of paper used for things like this. This can help give the waistband form and keep it from folding up on you in unsightly ways. Just hide it inside the folds of the waistband when you put it all together. It isn't required, but I've found it has been remarkably helpful.

-Ii