jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Kasa
Jun 21, 2014 11:16:59 GMT -5
Post by jon on Jun 21, 2014 11:16:59 GMT -5
I've looked into buying a Straw kasa or Con La (Vietnamese) but they all seem rather expensive with or without shipping.
So how would someone make one at home? and what material.
Ive made a sheet metal one with a 21inch diameter that I like ascetically but its rather heavy and awkward to wear at an event.
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Kasa
Jun 21, 2014 15:48:07 GMT -5
Post by roninpenguin on Jun 21, 2014 15:48:07 GMT -5
Back when I was thinking about making my own there were not really any tutorials out there on the web at that point. When I get a chance I'll look and see if any have popped up in the years since.
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jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Kasa
Jun 22, 2014 8:15:10 GMT -5
Post by jon on Jun 22, 2014 8:15:10 GMT -5
I've looked all over the internet but all I can find is kids craft ones made of craft paper.
I still want to make a grass one but do you guys think a hardened leather Kasa would turn out cool? I would use my sheet metal Kasa as a mould to let it harden on.
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Post by roninpenguin on Jun 23, 2014 4:27:48 GMT -5
If you paint it up it should at least look as good as a metal one.
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jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Kasa
Jun 30, 2014 16:57:41 GMT -5
Post by jon on Jun 30, 2014 16:57:41 GMT -5
So I brutally messed up the hardened leather kasa. Back to the drawing board.
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Kasa
Jun 30, 2014 21:24:33 GMT -5
Post by roninpenguin on Jun 30, 2014 21:24:33 GMT -5
That sucks, what did you do?
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jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Kasa
Jun 30, 2014 22:50:25 GMT -5
Post by jon on Jun 30, 2014 22:50:25 GMT -5
My friend told me I could put the leather into a sink with steaming water and put some boiled water in with it. I tried that put it on my metal one for a mold and let it sit for two days to dry. Didnt work.
So then I read online you can put it directly into boiled water for 10 seconds or less. So I soaked the leather and then put it in the pot for 5 seconds and when I pulled it out it was 2/3rds smaller and after waiting for it to dry its not as hard as I would need anyways.
Mind you the leather was 4oz couch leather. So ill probably have to find something thicker and a much bigger piece of it.
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Mega Zenjirou Yoshi
New Member
The Scadian formerly known as Lord Drogo Bryce of Middlefordshire
Posts: 175
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Kasa
Jul 1, 2014 6:39:45 GMT -5
Post by Mega Zenjirou Yoshi on Jul 1, 2014 6:39:45 GMT -5
My friend told me I could put the leather into a sink with steaming water and put some boiled water in with it. I tried that put it on my metal one for a mold and let it sit for two days to dry. Didnt work. So then I read online you can put it directly into boiled water for 10 seconds or less. So I soaked the leather and then put it in the pot for 5 seconds and when I pulled it out it was 2/3rds smaller and after waiting for it to dry its not as hard as I would need anyways. Mind you the leather was 4oz couch leather. So ill probably have to find something thicker and a much bigger piece of it. Not an expert, but I'm betting the learther was chrome-tanned. For boiled leather I believe you need to use vegetable tanned. Chromed-tanned is generally thinner and more pliable, think garment learher, gloves, mini-skirts, upholstery. Vege-tanned leather is the thicker, stuff, Tandy sells it as belt blanks and for tooling. Have you seen this guide to water-hardening leather? link
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jon
New Member
Posts: 52
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Kasa
Jul 1, 2014 11:41:41 GMT -5
Post by jon on Jul 1, 2014 11:41:41 GMT -5
It was most likely chrome-tanned then. I got a ton of leather for free from a couch on the side of the road just put out, saying "free". Worth a try though. I hoping that would work because its so light and probably wouldnt get much heavier. So Ill probably have to find something else to make one with, aside from leather and metal. or else I might snap my neck while fighting.
And yes Ive seen that guide.
My Tandy actually sells armour leather.
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Post by roninpenguin on Jul 2, 2014 3:28:24 GMT -5
Yeah Veggie Tanned works way better than just about any other leather.
There are also a couple of other tricks.
1) Soak your leather in room temp water first, this will help your hot water penetrate easier.
2) You can use boiling water but there are a couple of problems. A) True boil hardened leather is pretty brittle and B) It is very hard to get even heating without scorching the leather. I find it is better to use water which is about 180 degrees (which is when it is starting to bubble but not really boiling) and leave the leather in there for about 20-30 seconds. What you do is watch it, if the edges start to turn dark then pull it early.
3) Boil hardening will shrink your leather significantly, make sure you take that into account. The thicker the leather the more shrink you get. It will also thicken as well so if you are using really thick leather to start be ready to have super thick leather when you are done.
4) Make sure you have your form ready to go and your ties and clamps set out in easy reach. You only have a short amount of really good time to form your leather because as it cools it gets less pliable so be ready to stretch it across your form as soon as you get it out of the water. I use rubber coated work gloves for this because you don't want that hot water soaking in.
There are also other ways of boil hardening leather.
1) You can wet and stretch your leather over your form first, then pour boiling water over it while it is still wet. If you do this method you really need the water at a full rolling boil and be careful because it is easy to burn yourself.
2) You can wet and stretch your leather over a form and then bake it in the over at about 200 degrees until dry. This works well but you NEED to make sure your form can take the heat for a long stretch of time. Also your house will smell like leather for days.
Anyway I've actually done a lot of water leather hardening so if you have any questions just ask and I'll see if I can answer it.
And as far as your couch leather, you could try PVA hardening it if you can get the PVA to penetrate.
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