Post by Please Delete on Jun 22, 2014 22:00:05 GMT -5
Here are some pictures of the fencing outfit I'm working on. The goal is to eventually get a kogusoku sugata out of it. I'm using linen for everything except some of the thread and cords. Eventually I want to make a set of kote, suneate, and nodowa that will go with it all to help complete the look. This is still a work in progress--only the shitagi is really finished.
So here's the shitagi:
(Click for a larger image)
It is 3 layers of linen (about 4.5oz, by my calculation). I've used a basic kosode pattern, but only made it to about mid-thigh level, and I completely sewed the armholes closed. That seems consistent with what I see in late period shitagi, and even though I eventually want this to be more of a Kamakura era look when completed, I figured that was a good layer to start with. It is at least 3 layers anywhere that I need "puncture resistant" material, as that is what my punch test showed as working. It is three full layers in back, and in the front it is three layers to below the obi line, and then two layers below that, where I won't need a full three (since I'll have hakama or some other option on top of it. The okumi was originally going to be one layer, but I found that left a strip down the middle of my chest at only two layers, total, so I added a second layer out of scrap pieces to one of the okumi so I get at least three (and up to 5 layers, in places. I used the trick of putting in the okumi along the bias, which wasn't really the best idea, here, but it works. The shortness of the okumi means that the angle of the bottom pieces is much more pronounced than on a longer garment, like a full-length kosode or hitoe-style garment. I tapered the arms per what I've seen in later garments. I almost did it with more of an "S" curve, as I've seen that on some, but when I checked, those were all post-period or very late period, with a slightly different method of construction.
There are four ties at the side--two on the sides and two on the eri, near the waistline, but not quite, as I didn't want them to be directly under the obi. These were, frankly, based on modern iaido gi in size and shape, as that seems to work. There is a frog closure at the throat made from a twisted piece of linen and a knotted piece on the other end. So far it works well--I probably don't need it, but it is a nice extra bit of security. It falls under my gorget, and I didn't have any problems, there.
Here is the foundation of the yoroi hitatare.
I'm still debating whether I want to try to print something on it... I probably won't, especially since it is sewn together (fortunately, it is mostly flat, so I could still do it, if I became inspired). While many I've seen are quite garish and loud, I wanted to start with something that I felt comfortable throwing in the wash when I'm done with it, and if it rips, I won't be too heart broken. I fully expect it to tear at some point, and will probably wear it primarily for events, and not practice. It is missing the seam reinforcing knots (though there is extra thread sewn down where they will go, so it isn't just them), and I don't have the cords for the arms, yet. I also need the munahimo across the breast. I have some simple cord from JoAnn's that I may use, but I would rather have a nice braid. We'll give that some thought. Still, white cord with the blue ground should be rather nice in and of itself.
Here are some pictures with me so that you can see what they look like when worn.
The hakama are just modern hakama, as I don't have the bottom pair finished, yet. That will have ties the same color as the rest of the fabric, but white reinforcing cords that should stand out nicely.
Another part of this will be figuring out the mask situation. I'm going to make the outfit for cut and thrust, using the kote to add protection and required padding. I'm going to look at Yoshitsune-gote, but am torn as to whether to make one or two; one is more traditional for the look, but I may fight with two just for the defense, particularly if I get a tachi to fight with. A guruwa should work for the gorget, as long as it covers the back sufficiently, and I'll probably add suneate for the legs as well as habaki to hold it all together. The mask has me thinking--I have a helmet I can use, but it isn't very Japanese. I'm considering whether or not to make a 20ga bowl, with a mempo and fencing mask. If I did that, I would have to consider whether or not it was sufficient protection for the back of the head. I will also need to make sure that whatever I do I can feel properly delivered blows, so I may end up with just a modified fencing mask to start, but we'll see. I may look at doing an eboshi of some sort to fit over a fencing helmet, but I'm not yet sure how I would go about doing that.
More as it develops.
-Ii
So here's the shitagi:
(Click for a larger image)
It is 3 layers of linen (about 4.5oz, by my calculation). I've used a basic kosode pattern, but only made it to about mid-thigh level, and I completely sewed the armholes closed. That seems consistent with what I see in late period shitagi, and even though I eventually want this to be more of a Kamakura era look when completed, I figured that was a good layer to start with. It is at least 3 layers anywhere that I need "puncture resistant" material, as that is what my punch test showed as working. It is three full layers in back, and in the front it is three layers to below the obi line, and then two layers below that, where I won't need a full three (since I'll have hakama or some other option on top of it. The okumi was originally going to be one layer, but I found that left a strip down the middle of my chest at only two layers, total, so I added a second layer out of scrap pieces to one of the okumi so I get at least three (and up to 5 layers, in places. I used the trick of putting in the okumi along the bias, which wasn't really the best idea, here, but it works. The shortness of the okumi means that the angle of the bottom pieces is much more pronounced than on a longer garment, like a full-length kosode or hitoe-style garment. I tapered the arms per what I've seen in later garments. I almost did it with more of an "S" curve, as I've seen that on some, but when I checked, those were all post-period or very late period, with a slightly different method of construction.
There are four ties at the side--two on the sides and two on the eri, near the waistline, but not quite, as I didn't want them to be directly under the obi. These were, frankly, based on modern iaido gi in size and shape, as that seems to work. There is a frog closure at the throat made from a twisted piece of linen and a knotted piece on the other end. So far it works well--I probably don't need it, but it is a nice extra bit of security. It falls under my gorget, and I didn't have any problems, there.
Here is the foundation of the yoroi hitatare.
I'm still debating whether I want to try to print something on it... I probably won't, especially since it is sewn together (fortunately, it is mostly flat, so I could still do it, if I became inspired). While many I've seen are quite garish and loud, I wanted to start with something that I felt comfortable throwing in the wash when I'm done with it, and if it rips, I won't be too heart broken. I fully expect it to tear at some point, and will probably wear it primarily for events, and not practice. It is missing the seam reinforcing knots (though there is extra thread sewn down where they will go, so it isn't just them), and I don't have the cords for the arms, yet. I also need the munahimo across the breast. I have some simple cord from JoAnn's that I may use, but I would rather have a nice braid. We'll give that some thought. Still, white cord with the blue ground should be rather nice in and of itself.
Here are some pictures with me so that you can see what they look like when worn.
The hakama are just modern hakama, as I don't have the bottom pair finished, yet. That will have ties the same color as the rest of the fabric, but white reinforcing cords that should stand out nicely.
Another part of this will be figuring out the mask situation. I'm going to make the outfit for cut and thrust, using the kote to add protection and required padding. I'm going to look at Yoshitsune-gote, but am torn as to whether to make one or two; one is more traditional for the look, but I may fight with two just for the defense, particularly if I get a tachi to fight with. A guruwa should work for the gorget, as long as it covers the back sufficiently, and I'll probably add suneate for the legs as well as habaki to hold it all together. The mask has me thinking--I have a helmet I can use, but it isn't very Japanese. I'm considering whether or not to make a 20ga bowl, with a mempo and fencing mask. If I did that, I would have to consider whether or not it was sufficient protection for the back of the head. I will also need to make sure that whatever I do I can feel properly delivered blows, so I may end up with just a modified fencing mask to start, but we'll see. I may look at doing an eboshi of some sort to fit over a fencing helmet, but I'm not yet sure how I would go about doing that.
More as it develops.
-Ii
