Looking for info on Takeyamachi

[greeknakos]

Greetings,

Does anyone have any info on takeyamachi? I'm reading Japanese Costumes by Noma and all it mentions is its a loose gauze made from gold/silver thread. Is it loose gauze like cheese cloth or more like lace? Is the gold and silver thread the European fiber wrapped in gold/silver or the Chinese/Japanese paper backed gold/silver leaf?

Arigato
Nakos

[solveig]

Daijirin third edition claims that the technique for making takeyamachi 竹屋町 was introduced from China during the early Edo period. Daijisen is a bit more specific about the date placing it during the 元和（1615～1624) period. This suggests that it is post-period for Japan. Regardless, the entry in Daijirin suggests that the cloth is simply woven rather than being a lace. However, the entry also suggests that patterns were produced. Further, it appears to be woven from ordinary/flat gold thread.

From cha no yu to wa we find the following:

While this cloth (a variety of kinran) is traditionally identified as Takeya-machi gire [竹屋町裂], the modern Japanese are mistaken. Takeya-machi gire is a gauze-like fabric (originally made for semi-transparent formal over-wear that allowed one to show off the colors of ones robes without removing the outer ceremonial coat and train; in Japan it was also frequently used for the hangings that surround the recessed altar found in some temples*) imported from China, with a stamped or painted-on pattern usually done in gold lacquer (a transparent lacquer base into which a quantity of powdered gold-bullion has been mixed — and so, inherently different from things like maki-e). Thus, rather than being a variety of kinran (in which the pattern is woven), Takeya-machi gire is a kind of in-kin [印金], a cloth with a stamped-on design. Rather than flowing lines, when making Takeya-machi gire the lacquer is applied by dipping a short stylus-head (the tip is usually 2- or 3-bu long and 1-bu wide) into the lacquer-paste and touching this to the gauze cloth†. The result is a mosaic-like pattern composed of independent small lines of gold, that add together to give the appearance of a continuous arabesque from a distance. While generally done on white gauze, the finished product was frequently dyed various colors (brown and navy-blue are the most commonly encountered colors on Japanese scrolls).

[greeknakos]

Solveig,

Thank you. At least there is something I don't have to look more in depth for my paper.

Nakos