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Post by ankokumaru on Jan 19, 2007 17:53:58 GMT -5
Konnichi-wa, y'all!
In about 9 months I am moving to Georgia (near Atlanta, so I imagine that is the Kingdom of Atlantia, yes?). My girlfriend is in the SCA, so I will probably wind up getting sucked in as well: it sounds fun.
I would like to make a nihon-jin character with a ronin persona. I figure since these guys were usually kinda poor it would excuse the relative simplicity and shabbiness of the garb and gear that I can likely afford (being somewhat poor myself...).
Anyway, I'll be asking various questions in various forums. Here in Buki, I'd like to know if anyone else is already using an SCA naginata. Any advice on how to make one, or use one in SCA combat?
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Post by mrcunningham on Jan 19, 2007 21:17:50 GMT -5
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Post by Otagiri Tatsuzou on Jan 20, 2007 10:40:32 GMT -5
This is a good book to get: bugei.com/product_54_detailed.htmIts an English translation of the All Japan Naginata Federation's "handbook" I have successfully set curves into rattan by soaking the last 2 or 3 feet of a 7.5' pole in water and then drying it after bending and wedging the pole into place. For instance, you might insert the soaked end of the pole in between the steps of a deck, bend the pole, tie it down, and leave it there for a week. I've also wedged poles under car bumpers. You will lose a lot of curve pretty quickly, but what remains will last forever. |
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Post by ankokumaru on Jan 20, 2007 12:32:23 GMT -5
Domo arigato, Otagiri-dono.... I imagine the same soak/bend/dry process would work with things like katana blades and such too, neh? When you say you "lose a lot of curve pretty quickly, but what remains will last", about what ratio do you mean. I understand that this isn't an xact science, but as a ballpark if I wanted a 15-degree bend/curve, would I initially bend it 30 degrees? More? Less?
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Post by Otagiri Tatsuzou on Jan 20, 2007 12:59:29 GMT -5
30 -> 15 sounds more or less right. Maybe 45 -> 15. I just bend it as far as I can without risking broken fibers.
The same process can be used with longer swords - say 6'. But is probably not worth it for anything shorter. The leverage in longer poles allows you to get the deep bends. Shorter poles are harder to "set up" in the initial shape for drying. For shorter pieces, look for rattan with a natural bend.
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Post by mrcunningham on Jan 20, 2007 14:34:24 GMT -5
Hey Otagiri-dono, how's that book you recommended? I've never heard of it.
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Post by Nitta Kaneyoshi on Feb 20, 2007 0:17:42 GMT -5
I have not worked with rattan much less made a rattan weapon(I hope to soon though) but I have done fairly extensive research into making all kinds of bow and I know that when an major angle is needed the bowyer uses steam. The wood is placed in a tube(pvc) that is fed steam(hose coming from kettle full of steaming water) on one side and then the wood is placed a form(lots of ways to create a form, hint: a steel strap can help prevent rising fibers)until it finishes drying. Strong(just about anything less than 90 degrees, maybe over) permanent curves can be created this way since the steam allows the wood bonds to be broken, displaced, and solidified in their new form. I am 'fairly' sure the same technique could be used quite effectively with rattan.
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Post by roninpenguin on Feb 20, 2007 21:54:19 GMT -5
I have bent my share of rattan and bamboo for weapons but I do have one word of advice to those out there that are making weapons for heavy combat.
It is harder to hit solid with a curved outward piece of rattan than it is with a straight or curved inward piece. The reason for that is simple, if the curve of your weapon follows the motion of the strike it will push along the striking area (Great for cutting, bad for impact as the force is distributed across that area) where as straight and inward curved you are lessening the inpact area and focusing the force.
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Post by Ishikawa Yoshimasa on Feb 22, 2007 19:37:37 GMT -5
In about 9 months I am moving to Georgia (near Atlanta, so I imagine that is the Kingdom of Atlantia, yes?). this aspect I can comment on with a great deal of athority<G> actualy atlanta is in the kingdom of Meridies, the Barony of South Downs as I recall. a group with several promiment figures, but perhaps of more interest to youwill be the presence of Sir Sven, and a household (not svens household) of nihonjin in that area. from what I understand Sir Sven has been known to do japanese, and makes some decent looking entry level japanese armor that he sells. a member of my own barony also will be moving to the atlanta are (if I understood him over the noise at feast correctly) in the imediate future. that gentle is THL James de Lion as for atlantia... they have the carolignas, as well as some states further north on the atlantic coast, but georgia serves as meridies atlantic seaboard, giving us two seafronts. (and yet I don't believe the meridien navy has a single ship<G>) as for polearm combat... I am planning on going jumonji-yari with enough length in the head to have a proper striking surface... I am looking at between 6' and 7' for an overall length, but as you pass 6' weight becomes critical fast. the advantages of the jumanji yari over the naginata in SCA combat include having a pair of side pieces that can hook an foul shields, enemy spears, etc. it is easy to thrust, depending on how you make it, you have three thrusting tips (much potential when placing between warriors on a shield wall<G>) if the head is long enough and properly constructed, it can qualify as a striking surface, allowing for yet another pair of striking edges... many more killing surfaces, and it might qualify as a left handed can opener. as for the whole ronin debate... here where samurai from what I can tell poor enough that they have been mistaken for ashigaru... you do what you can, and you impove with time... though depending on your viewpoint, and there has been a thread or two dedicated to the whole ronin/samurai thing, you are ronin as long as you to not serve someone... this can be a household, your group, a peer, any number of different ways to serve... if you serve, you are not ronin technicly speaking... but that is as I said a whole different thread... |
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Post by Yoshimitsu on Feb 23, 2007 16:48:56 GMT -5
The honorable Yagyu Tametomo spoke to handicaps with curved weapons: It is harder to hit solid with a curved outward piece of rattan than it is with a straight or curved inward piece. The reason for that is simple, if the curve of your weapon follows the motion of the strike it will push along the striking area (Great for cutting, bad for impact as the force is distributed across that area) where as straight and inward curved you are lessening the inpact area and focusing the force. While I enjoy the visual that curved weapons provide, and make a point of constructing all my arms with an appropriate bend, I agree that there are some potential challenges in using these weapons. Aside from proper application of force/avoiding draw cuts, body mechanics and execution time play a factor (at least for me) in successfully dealing with my opponents and training partners. When the point of your tachi/naginata/etc. trails two or three inches behind other parts of your weapon, you have to be more cognizant of (and allow more for) the angles, time to cross the gaps, part of the weapon you intend to strike with, etc. Yoshimitsu |
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Post by roninpenguin on Feb 24, 2007 2:27:31 GMT -5
Although I do have to add that with a curve you can get some wicked angles on your thrusting. ;D
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