Tomegawa on Kebiki Odoshi with Hon-Kozane

[Masahide]

Konnichi wa,

I'm preparing to make a mogami haramaki dou using Kebiki odoshi with hon kozane from Noble Plastics.

In reading the "Making a Dou" section of Bryant-sama's Nihon Katchou Seisakuben, I see mention of using tomegawa "stopping leathers" to stiffen the boards of the armor, and keep them from sliding up and down against each other. All the examples I see show how to do this clearly with sugake odoshi, but imply it was done with kebiki odoshi as well. Does anyone know how this was done with kebiki lacing?

Should you simply use the lower set of holes used for nawame garami and lace these to the bottom set of holes used on the upper lame which were used for shitagarami?

If that is the correct way of doing it, it also explains the proper distance that the kedate suspends the lower lame...

Any ideas?

Masahide

BTW, I'm doing some lacing experiments with the hon kozane from Noble Plastics and Rice Braid lace, so I can estimate the proper amount of lace needed for a dou. I'll post pictures and figures online when I have it complete.

[AJBryant]

It's done exactly the same way. You need to make pairs of holes for the tomegawa on the very bottom of the scales (the same as for solid lames) every five or six inches or so.


Tony

[Masahide]

AJBryant said:

It's done exactly the same way. You need to make pairs of holes for the tomegawa on the very bottom of the scales (the same as for solid lames) every five or six inches or so.

Where would they go? Are these smaller holes than the ones used for the lacing? For instance, should they go at the top and bottom of the lames in the spots I have indicated with green?



Masahide

[AJBryant]

You're right... I forgot about the placement of the holes in those kozane. (The placement is a slight concession to people's inclination to use thicker lace for the shitagarami, and to allow any scale to be used for the hishinui no ita.)

Yeah, any random pair of bottom holes would work fine.


Tony

[Masahide]

AJBryant said:

Yeah, any random pair of bottom holes would work fine.

What about the top holes? Should you use the top hole, and pierce the plate behind, or should you use the top pair of through holes?

Masahide

[Date Saburou Yukiie]

Hiraizumi-sensei,
I have wondered something and I might as well ask the master -
For the Nobel Plastic kozane, should they be fused with a solvent once they are laced in to boards, to simulate not only the overlacquering that period pieces had, and to seal the lower lacing, but to add the rigidity that period pieces had?

Once these plates take a few hits, the lacing will no doubt settle, causing a looser bind between scales. I am concerned with "sag" that may result.

What type of plastic are these kozane made of, and what sort of solvent would fuse them?
I anticipate ordering snot loads of the scales, but have been wondering this.

Date

[Masahide]

DateSaburouYukiie said:

What type of plastic are these kozane made of, and what sort of solvent would fuse them?
I anticipate ordering snot loads of the scales, but have been wondering this.

Date-dono,

He had been saying on the "Domaru Kozane Construction" thread that he used "Shoe Goo" on the lower half of the boards.

I wonder if this is flexable enough to allow you to glue them up flat, and still wrap them around a body, or if you should hold them to final shape, and then glue them up.

I'm also wondering if the boards should be curved with a Shiki prior to using Shoe Goo or other adhesive....

Thoughts?

Masahide

[Date Saburou Yukiie]

I would think that, like kydex armor, the boards could be softened into a curved shape in a 200 degree oven, then once finally curved, the solvent could bind them. Experimentation will tell, though, I suppose.
Date