kenshiro
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Dad, newbie armourer, SCA fighter
Posts: 67
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Post by kenshiro on May 25, 2005 15:40:29 GMT -5
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Post by Kitadatedenka on May 25, 2005 16:07:23 GMT -5
You might, but 60 bucks for 4 square feet of leather is pretty expensive. Better to make a punch just like what you want, and get regular leather. The holes are what takes the time...
They're also pretty wide, which makes me think of wide lacing and early periods...
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kenshiro
New Member
Dad, newbie armourer, SCA fighter
Posts: 67
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Post by kenshiro on May 25, 2005 16:11:09 GMT -5
Well I have called tandy and I can get a deal for the plates.. If i order in bulk I can get them for 27.00 bucks a bag..
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AJBryant
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甲冑師 katchuu-shi
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Post by AJBryant on May 25, 2005 16:32:44 GMT -5
They'd make decent plates for a haidate, but not kozane.
Effingham
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Post by fujiwara on May 25, 2005 23:53:43 GMT -5
What if you made iyo-zane out of them? Pic courtesy of sengokudaimyo.com
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kenshiro
New Member
Dad, newbie armourer, SCA fighter
Posts: 67
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Post by kenshiro on May 26, 2005 7:57:27 GMT -5
I think thats what my mate was on about... That just might work for him... Thanks fujiwara..
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AJBryant
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甲冑師 katchuu-shi
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Post by AJBryant on May 26, 2005 13:10:21 GMT -5
Ah. That would be possible. But they're just too thick. The overlapping edges would look horrible. That would be okay on haidate -- you expect that sort of thing there -- but on a do it would look all wrong.
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Post by Kitadatedenka on May 26, 2005 14:58:39 GMT -5
Why too thick? On your site you state that Japanese rawhide is about 1/8" thick, with nearly that again in lacquer. These don't appear to be a quarter inch thick, and you say that's about right thickness for plastic. I'm just trying to make you reconcile your statements. You'll need to do that anyway for the book. ;D
(I disagree with your statement that regular leather is too brittle after waxing for kozane. I wore a dou of that composition for more than 20 years, and started on another. OK, to be fair you said 'likely'.)
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Post by Kitadatedenka on May 26, 2005 15:02:36 GMT -5
And while I'm at it on kozane, you say:
If you are making your own kozane, this taper can easily be recreated by cutting the kozane of the abdominal section of the dô narrower at the bottom by about about 1/16". (The kuzasuri and tateage kozane were straight.) It may not sound like much, but shaving off 1/16" (less than the width of a line drawn with a standard Sharpie!) subtracts an inch every 32 scales.
Won't that method fail to produce a curve in a lame unless you also make your goles closer together at the bottom? Just tapering the kozane will still give you a straight lame if the holes are all on parallel lines.
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AJBryant
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Post by AJBryant on May 26, 2005 15:20:09 GMT -5
I thought I said that the holes parallel the edges. Hm. Just checked online, and it's not there. I could have sworn it was. It's in the new version. If you look at the PDF with "kozane types", the "shaved" kozane has the line of holes rotated inward as well.
But, yes, you're right.
Effingham
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Post by Kitadatedenka on May 26, 2005 15:35:55 GMT -5
Yeah, I made sure to check online first so that I didn't end up with my hoof in my mouth. I want other people to do that first, so I try to wherever possible. ;D
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AJBryant
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Post by AJBryant on May 26, 2005 18:41:55 GMT -5
Good move. I was all psyched up to say, "Well, if you look at the next sentence...." but, dang it, there wasn't one. Sigh. Effingham
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Post by fujiwara on May 26, 2005 19:36:48 GMT -5
Hey, the dimensions are 1 1/2 x 3 3/4...if you cut them in half lengthwise, they ought to be perfect
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AJBryant
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甲冑師 katchuu-shi
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Post by AJBryant on May 26, 2005 20:37:45 GMT -5
Because iyozane are not kozane. They were made of different materials at a different point in time and go together differently -- what works and was done with one doesn't hold for the other.
Effingham
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