Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jul 21, 2011 12:23:55 GMT -5
I have a great wealth of modern kimono. More so, I own many that are woven and produced using period techniques. So, I am going to start a new project...in that I am going to convert several of these pieces into Momoyama style kosode. The kimono in question are light weight, ideal for SCA events which around here tend to be pretty hot. Though cotton is period for the Momoyama, I am going to largely avoid it in favor of a light weight authentic Japanese silk. *Photos soon, concept drawings, and more will be posted and updated as work progresses.* Right now I am trying to decide between which style I should use:
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
Posts: 276
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jul 21, 2011 20:53:40 GMT -5
I posted a poll to my Canton on Facebook and the Katasuso style won out. I've begun work here are the photos so far. There is 1 glaring flaw in using kimono....the collar. The collar will not be in the period style if you re-use the original kimono collar. As such if you must go period, you will have to make an all new collar to attach. When picking kimono I made certain that both were not only flattering to each other, but also the same width. Length is not quiet as important as the width of each kimono. I am using a sage green kimono that features grass blades. Im going to embroider crickets and small birds onto the green area. The second kimono is a red with a geometric sort of chain link design. I am most likely going to embroider my personal mon onto it intermixed with the crane used by my Canton. The bottoms of the kimono pinned and ready to be cut. The bottoms cut off the two kimono. The length is a little greater then it should be in terms of proportion, ah well amateur mistake. Top half of the green - it needs its collar removed for the rest of the work to be finished. The collar stripped away, ready to be cut yet again.
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Post by Noriko on Jul 22, 2011 20:09:29 GMT -5
Not to rain on your parade, but I have a feeling that, with the exception of the katami-gawari, it seems that to get the 'effect' of two different fabric styles, the kimono would have been just decorated/dyed in certain sections as opposed to cut and pasted. To borrow a phrase from Dalby, the Japanese "have a fear of cutting into garments"- this was so the garment could be taken apart and pieced back together in various permutations as the garment became worn.[1] A little googling also reveals that for the style you've chosen, the color variation doesn't refer to differing fabrics but rather, the shading indicates where on the garment there has been decoration and where it has been left plain.[2] However, this being said, you'd have to be a rather practiced dyer to make up the kimono as it was done in period, when it comes down to it, as long as you are happy with what you make and feel fantastic in what you wear. [1]See: www.iz2.or.jp/fukusyoku/busou/images/098-a.gif It doesn't appear pieced as much as just dyed in certain areas and not others. [2]http://inuiyouko.web.fc2.com/sirotae/e01/kosode-e.html
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
Posts: 276
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jul 22, 2011 20:47:12 GMT -5
Edit: please see below for period proof of patchwork style assembly for kosode
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jul 22, 2011 20:53:18 GMT -5
Seeing as I play a low ranking persona of no wealth it is perfectly acceptable for her to be wearing a patchwork style kosode that is an imitation of whats popular. Actually, it's the other way around. If you don't already have it, I highly recommend Japanese Costume and Textile Arts by Seiroku Noma.* It traces the origin of dan gawari and katami gawari styles to piecing of garments by members of the lower classes who did so to get more wear out of damaged garments. (*runs about $20 used and is one of a multivolume arts-of-Japan series put out by Heibonsha/Weatherhill in the 1970s).
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jul 22, 2011 20:56:28 GMT -5
UPDATE: Here are period example of the patchwork style used. I do not have to dye this kimono to create a period style. Patchwork is period.Source: Japan's Golden Age: Momoyama ,page 288 & 287 Further more the book does cite blocks of fabric PATCHES assembled to create the look. And so...I present to you proof that this patchwork style is period for the Momoyama and my work is valid. Looking at the photo first hand there are very clearly seams between the patches. There is another clearly patchwork style with obvious seams kosode on 287. If you want that photo let me know. The period kosode from the book that is assembled patchwork style. This kosode is Momoyama.
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jul 22, 2011 21:07:57 GMT -5
Momoyama book, page 287 & 288 supporting patchwork style "...five smaller patches are stitched together at the center of the back" referring to the assembly of the Dan style. Page 288. "The uneven size of the red and white blocks as well as the difference in style, scale, and arrangement of the floral sprays indicates that this robe was pieced together from parts of two garments." Page 228 about the kosode pictured in the Dan style. "The practice of piecing together garments from patches of contrasting colors and designs probably arose in response to practical rather then decorative purposes." page 277, talking about another fine patchwork in the Dan style as well. "As a result of retailoring, the alternating design does not extend into the sleeves." page 287, still talking about a Dan style patchwork. That's just the quotes at a glance supporting patchwork cutting style for assembly. Now as for social class, I will def look into that book as one of my future purchases Finding momoyama social info is such a pain . Any direction on that is great.
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jul 22, 2011 21:21:14 GMT -5
I think I NEED to make this one of these days. It's been awhile since I've done something completely insane.... Hmm, maybe in time for Twelfth Night....
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jul 22, 2011 21:25:58 GMT -5
Do it..Ive been following you for years, your the first person that comes to mind for such a project. That style is the next kind I plan on making. BTW - my current progress is on stand by because Im having a kimono dressing party at my house tomorrow. Sewing resumes soon Do you want more patchwork kosode pictures from the book? Theres some marvelous examples.
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jul 22, 2011 21:42:56 GMT -5
I have said book, so I don't need them.
I'll be interested to see how your conversions go. I'm such a great horse that modern kimono fabrics usually aren't wide enough for me to get the proper scale.
If you can make it work, more power to you.
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
Posts: 276
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jul 22, 2011 21:44:24 GMT -5
I'm a size 8 / 10 - so a lot of the stuff works out jut fine for me. the only thing I cant figure out is how to get the collar "period". All the same in the picture provided you do see a split color collar.....so I am thinking of doing 2 solid pieces half half style for a more "period" look.
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Jul 22, 2011 21:52:00 GMT -5
I'm a size 8 / 10 - so a lot of the stuff works out jut fine for me. the only thing I cant figure out is how to get the collar "period". All the same in the picture provided you do see a split color collar.....so I am thinking of doing 2 solid pieces half half style for a more "period" look. You can certainly piece your collar. I did on my purple dan gawari to match the panels they aligned with, which you can see here. www.flickr.com/photos/70104978@N00/2277894949/sizes/o/in/set-72157603946634507/ Or you could go bonkers and have the piecing alternate the other way if you like how it looks.
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Post by Noriko on Jul 22, 2011 22:34:43 GMT -5
Ah, I see now. I've seen a garment like that and it would appear that I misread the diagrams you posted. It appeared that the sleeves were all one style with just bottoms of the sleeves in a different style- it seemed strange that a sleeve wouldn't be pieced on the selvages. My bad! (:
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jul 22, 2011 23:01:39 GMT -5
I am torn about doing the part on the sleeve. Personally I have seen examples where both styles are acceptable...I would imagine its partly based on what parts are good and bad. Ya know? I need to head to bed, but tomorrow or at least by Sunday I will upload the photos of the other patchwork kimono on patch 287 which shows patchwork sleeves.
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Lady Kimiko
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I'm busy making tea bowls these days.
Posts: 276
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Post by Lady Kimiko on Jul 22, 2011 23:48:00 GMT -5
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