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Post by Hosokawa Sanosuke on Feb 12, 2006 19:22:21 GMT -5
how would one go about making a rattan kamayari? does anyone have experiance with this?
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Post by Otagiri Tatsuzou on Feb 12, 2006 19:52:05 GMT -5
I cut two plus-sign or cross ( + ) shaped pieces out of barrel plastic about 6 or 8 inches in diameter.
I drilled two small holes into each arm of the plastic.
I cut two pieces of rattan about 12" inches in length.
I shaved flat about 8" of rattan on a 7.5' foot pole, about 15" or 18" inches from one end.
I used 8 very short (3/8"?) wood screws to attach the plastic cross pieces to the main pole.
I used 8 very short wood screws to attach the short pieces of rattan to the cross pieces.
I covered the plastic pieces (and screws) with thin leather.
I wrapped the whole thing with strapping tape.
I wrapped the strapping tape with ducttape.
I tipped the rattan cross pieces with 2" thrusting tips.
I found the whole thing too tip heavy and unbalanced.
A weapon produced by these instructions may not be list legal in your area. Speak with your local marshal.
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Post by Takeda Sanjuichiro on Feb 12, 2006 20:55:08 GMT -5
how would one go about making a rattan kamayari? does anyone have experiance with this? I have seen, used, and made both the polearm and spear versions in the SCA. The spear version is far more simple. Using either foam or heater hose, create a "cross hilt" like one sees on the older western style SCA swords. Pad and tape with strapping tape. Depending upon kingdom law and the marshals who inspect it you may be able to construct it in a manner that it is legal to thrust someone with the crossbar, effectively widening your "point". The greatest benefit is the stiff "hooks" to snag shields or weapons. With the use of the EVA foam it is much easier to create a kamayari polearm. Get yourself a block and saw out each side and strapping tape it onto the rattan. As a side note, When I am using foam I shave/plane the striking surface of the weapon as well as the sides down to between and inch and a quarter to an inch and a half. This permits a better bonding of the foam to the rattan, it is not as likely to rip off since the foam is well supported. Keep in mind though that if you shave rattan on all sides, particuarly the striking surface it will have a shorter life. I do not recommend it for any polearm that has more than 1 foot of striking surface, and only those that are padded. -Takeda
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Post by Hosokawa Sanosuke on Feb 13, 2006 1:19:04 GMT -5
I agree, otagiri-dono, that sounds tip heavy.
though i have never weilded a functional specimen i can imagine that the head would have a considerable weight to it, though the steel would give life.
I am not sure i know what EVA foam is, where do you get it? is it resilient? can i use it for other things? (contemplating a kama).
thanks for your responses, i have gained a new dimension of weapon design knowledge today.
P.S. I am more interested in the polearm version, i dont have the knack for real spear work.
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Post by Otagiri Tatsuzou on Feb 13, 2006 10:59:59 GMT -5
Takedo-dono,
Are you able to generate killing strikes with the EVA? Killing thrusts? Or are the crosspieces only defensive?
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Post by Takeda Sanjuichiro on Feb 13, 2006 15:00:23 GMT -5
Are you able to generate killing strikes with the EVA? Killing thrusts? Or are the crosspieces only defensive? Generally speaking the eva foam, if I am calling it the right thing, (either the white or the black stiff foam they use to cut the halbard and various european polearm parts out of) is more than stiff enough to wallop someone good. Most marshals here make you pad over it with a softer foam to pass. Those few people who have not accepted blows from it, I tend to think are either "dense" or are from a place where they play predominantly with unpadded polearms, and have not adjusted their calibration. -Takeda
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Post by Hosokawa Sanosuke on Feb 16, 2006 23:47:54 GMT -5
do you have to order EVA online? I dont recall ever seeing it in a hardware or craft store. This is quite interesting.
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Post by Takeda Sanjuichiro on Feb 17, 2006 16:41:52 GMT -5
do you have to order EVA online? I dont recall ever seeing it in a hardware or craft store. This is quite interesting. The best (and most economical) places to find it are online, you should check out a variety of sources, one might be local enough to you to do a counter pick-up and save on shipping. -Takeda
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Post by mikaiyawa on Feb 17, 2006 21:39:21 GMT -5
can someone link to pictures? I'm trying to picture things in my head and keep getting a huge x shaped club and that *can't* be right....
Mieka
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Post by Hosokawa Sanosuke on Feb 19, 2006 1:20:40 GMT -5
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Post by mikaiyawa on Feb 19, 2006 11:06:42 GMT -5
that clarifies things tremendously.
Thank you.
Mieka
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Hiroyuki
New Member
"Yamamura Masutarou Hiroyuki"
Posts: 165
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Post by Hiroyuki on Feb 19, 2006 14:19:40 GMT -5
So is this is a stabbing weapon or a slash and stabbin weapon?
How would you secure said foam head to the rattan?
Hiroyuki
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Post by Takeda Sanjuichiro on Feb 19, 2006 18:11:44 GMT -5
So is this is a stabbing weapon or a slash and stabbin weapon? Yari generally tended to be both slashing and stabbing weapons. Some yari had very thick spines and were nearly triangular or square in cross section, while reducing the effectiveness of slashing (not effective profiles for cutting) they were very durable for piercing bone and armor. Others had thinner profiles and were very effective slashing weapons, though most all had a heavy spine to provide durability. Kamayari were used both ways but tended to be heavy into the slashing category, the outer blades primarily purpose was to cut pucture, and hook/tear. Personally I use barge cement, then strapping tape... the barge cement eliminates the "wiggle" that creeps in as the tape ages and dries. -Takeda Hiroyuki[/quote]
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Hiroyuki
New Member
"Yamamura Masutarou Hiroyuki"
Posts: 165
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Post by Hiroyuki on Feb 19, 2006 19:02:07 GMT -5
Couldn't you split the rattan at the head, and insert the foam there? Than use the cement strapping tape around the outside?
Hiroyuki
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Post by Takeda Sanjuichiro on Feb 20, 2006 10:08:22 GMT -5
Couldn't you split the rattan at the head, and insert the foam there? Than use the cement strapping tape around the outside? Theoretically you could. Keep in mind though that the thickness of the foam needs to be at least 1 and 1/4 inches, like the striking surface of all weapons. Laminating and splitting rattan is a big no-no in weapon construction (except shaving the sides, and the use as clackers where list legal). The method I described is very secure, and is about as accurate looking as you can get from SCA legal weapons. There are some things that will just look clunky no matter what you do, just do as nice a job as you can. -Takeda
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