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Post by Otagiri Tatsuzou on Nov 14, 2005 18:22:14 GMT -5
A critical element is the MASS of the garments. kosode + hitoe + 5 uchigi = 35 yards of fabric. My 50 kilo wife is looking scared. ;D |
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Nov 14, 2005 18:39:59 GMT -5
Sounds like she's about the right size then.  My "informal" kosode, hakama (feared accidents and went for floor grazers instead of proper nabagakama), one hitoe, one uchigi (not lined, but probably needs to be came out to 21 yards. Saionji |
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Post by Abe Akirakeiko on Nov 14, 2005 20:14:14 GMT -5
Actually, that's a hitatare kamishimo, not a kariginu-- the seller got it wrong. Likewise, the one below it is an uwagi/kouchigi, not a karaginu. -Abe |
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Post by Inoue Tsukiko on Nov 14, 2005 20:42:43 GMT -5
My "informal" kosode, hakama (feared accidents and went for floor grazers instead of proper nabagakama), one hitoe, one uchigi (not lined, but probably needs to be came out to 21 yards. I went through the fabric store once, and found most of the correct colors needed for all five layers in linen. It was a very colorful spring affair color scheme. With my height, adjustments for arm length, and considering the floor dragging factor, and a proper nabagakama it came out to 40 yards. That was cheating and making it unlined. Inoue-hime, get yourself on down to Jararvellir and I would happily help you.
Ja ne
Nagamochi  Yeah! Will do! Thank you! Thank you! I can help too!
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Post by Otagiri Tatsuzou on Nov 14, 2005 22:35:39 GMT -5
Abe-hime, I thank you for the correction!
And yes ... the 35 yards is for unlined garments.
Nagabakama, uchiginu, uwagi, mo, and karaginu excluded.
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Post by Nagamochi on Nov 15, 2005 2:18:32 GMT -5
My winter "pine-layer" I tried to do at the time when I knew little compared to now, came out fairly well on the mark. Kosode: 4 yds Nagabakama: 6 yds hitoe(lined) 10yds Itsutsu-ginu= Dark green: 5yds Med. green: 5yds Yellow-green: 2yds(faked due to breakdown in budget) Light Brown: 5yds Dark Brown: 5yds Uwagi: 5yds(currently being made) So even without the uwagi or mo, and one layer faked, that's still 42 yards of fabric, and plenty warm I tell ya!  |
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Post by Noriko on Nov 15, 2005 14:30:06 GMT -5
Be careful. It's not just the effect of the layers at the edges. A critical element is the MASS of the garments. The itsutsu ginu, a "cheat" method common in period (where five layers were pre-layered) actually *was* five garments pieced into one. Effingham Ah, I see. Thanks. But considering I use linen, not silk[1], I think the bulk is relatively well simulated in my garb. The fact that I'm 5'2", somewhat petite and wearing five layers (kosode, hitoe, 2 kinu, 1 ko-uchigi), makes me look like I'm drowning in a sea of fabric! [1] I'm one of those "crazy wannabe vegetarians" and feel bad about wearing silk, as it kills the poor widdle catepillars. |
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Nov 15, 2005 17:18:46 GMT -5
You're supposed to.  Saionji |
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Post by Abe Akirakeiko on Nov 15, 2005 19:26:34 GMT -5
Nagamochi-dono, just FYI in case you didn't know, you don't need to use this much fabric in the future-- a hitoe is by definition an unlined garment. If it's lined, it ain't a hitoe... -Abe |
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Nov 15, 2005 19:43:07 GMT -5
"Drowning in fabric." "OMG, I'm only 5' nothing, I can't wear all that!" This reaction is not new. Ladies, you are not wearing modern Western clothing. You are not even wearing dressy modern Western clothing. You are trying to wear fashions that are more than a millenium old and was worn by physically small people. They didn't view it as drowning in fabric! "I am favored by the Emperor/Empress so I can wear all this!" "I have exquisite taste because I have come up with this lovely arrangement of colors in my sleeves." "Yeah, well the Empress likes me so much she lets me wear kurenai! So there." How successful you are going to be in wearing any kind of period clothing is directly linked to how well you can get over worrying about your "normal" body image and how willing you are to let the clothing wear you. If you do it right, it WILL wear you. You will find you must move slowly (translating conveniently into stately grace!) or it won't hang right, your sleeves will become a disaster area, and you will hobble yourself with your own nabagakama. Work the fan. It will keep you cool, modestly hidden from prying eyes, and for me, at least, it often dissipates urges to fidget. These images are from a 12th century "Tale of Genji" in the possession of the Tokugawa art museum.   Those piles of fabric are the fashionable people of Genji's world, elegance personified. The moon faced wad of purple in the silly hat is the Brad Pitt of his age! Court dress makes me look small and dainty - and I'm 5'6" and wear a size 16. Don't think I don't love that! ;D Things to think about. Saionji |
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Post by Otagiri Tatsuzou on Nov 16, 2005 0:45:55 GMT -5
I can't believe I'm trying this ...
Murasaki murago in organza silk
-or-
Iroiro in linen-cotton.
I'll have to wait until I get the fabrics before I decide.
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Saionji Shonagon
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Nov 16, 2005 1:14:49 GMT -5
Wow. Just wow. I think the Iroio is gorgeous.
I'd love to do "yuki no shita." Or "suo no nioi." Someday..... And I could always wear my Dead Leaf uchigi for "yamabuki no nioi."
You are having far too much fun with this, Otagiri-dono. I am reminded of Go Fukakusa's All Girl Kemari Team as described in Lady Nijo's diary.
Perhaps one was kuge in a past incarnation.....
S.
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Post by Nagamochi on Nov 16, 2005 2:22:02 GMT -5
Thank you for that info, Abe, but one must remember I live in Wisconsin, I lined it...FOR A REASON! I'm still trying to look for a layering that works in yellow and black, or at the very least, a yellow and dark purple, to represent my kingdom's colors. Though now that I write it down, such a thing sounds kind of tacky, like wearing Packers apparel on game day. Otagiri-dono, do you need support from another male already doing this crazy, yet perfectly acceptable in period, cross-dressing? Send me an e-mail on here; I don't bite. sotto voce: Unless I'm p.o'ed.tee-hee... Nagamochi |
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Saionji Shonagon
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One dreamed of becoming somebody. Another remained awake and became. (Found in a fortune cookie.)
Posts: 7,240
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Post by Saionji Shonagon on Nov 16, 2005 8:21:44 GMT -5
If you want to wear black, wear men's clothes.
What part of "it's for my wife" did you miss, silly child. Besides, it would look odd with the beard.
Saionji
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Post by Otagiri Tatsuzou on Nov 16, 2005 10:02:00 GMT -5
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Yeah! Will do! Thank you! Thank you! 
